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Trek and history on the trails of Phja Khao

Located a stone's throw away from Ba Be National Park, this summit is an unforgettable adventure in the heart of Cho Don district. Combining history and nature, the Phja Khao trek invites you to explore the Xuan Lac Nature Reserve, an undiscovered gem of Vietnam.
 
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Trekking in Xuan Lac Nature Reserve - Photo : Mr Linh's adventures


Xuan Lac: a natural and historical treasure of Vietnam

At the crossroads of wild nature and colonial history, the Xuan Lac Nature Reserve reveals its secrets in the mountainous province of Bac Kan, just an hour away from Ba Be Lake. This peaceful haven of over 4,100 hectares offers visitors a total immersion into a preserved Vietnam, far from traditional tourist circuits.


A biodiversity sanctuary at altitude

Established in 2004, the reserve extends over the communes of Dong Lac, Xuan Lac, Ban Thi, and Yen Thinh, at an average altitude exceeding 800 meters. This privileged geographical location gives it a unique microclimate, with mild temperatures throughout the year, creating ideal conditions for exceptional biodiversity.

Botanists have identified over 650 plant species, including 50 listed in Vietnam's Red Book and 9 on the IUCN Red List. Among these natural treasures are rare species like ironwood, valued for its legendary strength, as well as a multitude of traditional medicinal plants used for generations by local populations.

The fauna is also rich, with 29 mammal species, 47 bird species, and 12 reptile species. The lucky ones may spot the iconic black-crested gibbons, the mysterious slow lorises, or rare birds like the yellow-throated bulbul. This wealth of wildlife makes Xuan Lac a true paradise for nature enthusiasts.
 
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Cho Dien mine - Photo : Unknown French photographer - 1927


The footprint of history

But Xuan Lac is not only a natural sanctuary - it is also an open-air history book. In the early 20th century, French colonists, drawn by the region's mineral wealth, developed one of the largest mining complexes in Indochina. The Cho Dien mine, an industrial flagship of the time, employed up to 1,000 workers in lead and zinc extraction.

Mining has left impressive traces: a complex network of tunnels (called "tu nen," a Vietnamese deformation of the French word "tunnel"), winch stations now overgrown by vegetation, and above all, an avant-garde cable car system over 3 kilometers long - a technical feat for the time, considered the first cable car in Vietnam.

These remnants tell a complex story, one of forced modernization and colonial exploitation, but also of human ingenuity. During the Indochina War, some installations were even unexpectedly repurposed: the steel from the winches was used to make weapons for the Vietnamese resistance.
 
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Phja Khao Peak - Photo : Mr Linh's adventures


Ascending Phja Khao: an unforgettable trek

The jewel of the reserve is undoubtedly Phja Khao peak, rising to 1,541 meters above sea level. The hike leading to it is a true odyssey through different ecosystems. The trail first winds through dense tropical forests, where bird songs accompany each step of the hikers. As you ascend, the vegetation changes, offering increasingly spectacular views of the surrounding valleys.

At the summit, a surprise awaits the hikers: the Phja Khoa temple, built in 1933. This sanctuary, dedicated to the hero Tran who repelled Mongol invasions, was beautifully restored in 2017. It not only provides a place for contemplation but also showcases traditional Vietnamese architecture in a grand setting.
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We did it !


Tips for visitors

The ideal period to explore Xuan Lac is from October to March, during the dry season. The temperatures are mild and the sky is often clear, offering optimal conditions for hiking and nature observation. Although the ascent of Phja Khao is demanding, it is still accessible to intermediate-level hikers with good physical condition.

It is recommended to be accompanied by local guides, true living encyclopedias, who greatly enhance the experience by sharing their knowledge of the region's history, culture, and biodiversity.
Do not miss out our Hiking Travel Guides
 

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Remnants of ancient mining operations are still visible - Photo : Mr Linh's adventures

 

Towards sustainable tourism

Xuan Lac perfectly illustrates Vietnam's new direction towards more responsible and sustainable tourism. The reserve works closely with local communities to develop ecotourism projects that preserve both the natural and cultural heritage.

Conservation programs, conducted in partnership with international organizations, aim to protect endangered species while raising visitors' awareness of environmental issues. This balanced approach allows travelers to discover an authentic Vietnam while contributing to its preservation for future generations.

Whether you are a history enthusiast, nature lover, or simply curious to experience authenticity, Xuan Lac offers a unique experience where every trail tells a story, every stone holds the memory of the past, and every sunrise reveals the preserved beauty of a still wild Vietnam.
Note : This collection of rare photos was captured in 1927 by an unknown French photographer, showing the strenuous mining activities at the Cho Dien Mine undertaken by indigenous laborers. You can see more here.

 
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