Southern Laos

Overview

Si Phan Don, meaning “Four Thousand Islands” certainly lives up to its name. On this vast river archipelago, time moves slowly and great views can be had from pretty much any location. This is the widest point of the roughly 4000 kilometre long Mekong River, and the powerful currents and aquatic roar hammer this point home.

Out of the huge number of islands, there are three that stand out as travel destinations. The biggest island in the archipelago, Don Khong, is incredibly lethargic and least touristic with nearby Don Khon and Don Det offering more in terms of sights and activities. Said activities include cycling, tubing, kayaking, waterfalls and dolphin-watching, but it’s also a spectacular place to rest up while relaxing in a hammock.
 

See and Do

While there are two temples situated on either side of the sizeable island, Wat Jom Thong and Wat Phu Khao Kaew, on the eastern and western shore respectively, they’re pretty unexciting compared to most Laotian wats. However, the view from the Mekong side of Wat Phu Khao Kaew is particularly spectacular, even here in Si Phan Don, where everywhere you turn you’re greeted with another panoramic scene.

The main thing to do in Don Khong is relax and let yourself be taken over by the lethargic vibes of the island. Rent a bike and ride around the 18 kilometre diameter of the island, and perhaps stop by the palm sugar farm at Ban Hin Siew Tai, or trek two kilometres into the forest to visit Tham Phu Khiaw, a forest-cave that serves as the object of an annual pilgrimage.

While Don Khong is a lovely place to unplug and relax for a while, it’s over on Don Det and Don Khon that the action happens. Three magnificent waterfalls can be found here. The first, Khon Pa Soi Falls, which due to its relative isolation is mercifully free of tourist crowds, requires you to cross a rather long wooden suspension bridge, which can alternate between thrilling and terrifying, depending on your relationship with heights.

Next is Tat Somphamit. More intense than Khon Pa Soi, this turbulent waterfall is said to trap bad spirits as they make their way down the Mekong. The local fishermen here put on quite a show as they endeavour to retrieve their cages by hopping from rock to rock amidst the violent flow of the water. Furthermore, if you happen to be here during dry season, there is Li Phi beach underneath the falls, avoided by locals for fear of evil spirits.

Last but not least is Khon Phapheng falls, which has the honour of being the largest and by far most impressive waterfall not just on the Mekong, but in all of South East Asia. Millions and millions of litres makes its way down the 21 metre fall every second, and the roar is unsurprisingly deafening.

There is also plenty to do out on the water of the Mekong. An ever shrinking population of Irrawaddy dolphins make their home among the islands, and if you head out in one of the boats leaving from the French Pier, you are almost guaranteed to get a glimpse of them.

Another fun activity on the river is kayaking, though due to terribly strong currents it’s best done with a guide. While you might get lucky and spot some dolphins while kayaking, don’t bet on it, as sightings doing this are far rarer than the ones from the dedicated dolphin-watching boats.
 

Culture & Arts

The best way to get a full view of the culture and daily life on the islands is by renting a bike on Don Khong and circling all the way around its shores. This lets you take in the locals doing their daily activities at a relaxed pace.

If you want to ensure that your cultural experience leaves a positive footprint with the local community, head over to Sabaidee Don Khong, where you can sign up for a week or more of teaching English to local children, in exchange for accommodation.
 

Food and Drink

Situated in the midst of the Mekong, Si Phan Don is a seafood lovers’ paradise. Classic Mekong staples like fried fish and fish lahp can be had in abundance here, as you’d expect.

You can also head out on a BBQ cruise from Don Det, letting you take in the sights of the mighty river while enjoying traditional Laotian barbeque on-board.
 

Festivals and Events

Don Khong is without a doubt the best place to experience the famous boat-racing festival Bun Suang Heua. Held in early December or late November, the festival consists of four days of carnival and boat races, with the latter being far closer to shore than in for example Luang Prabang or Vientiane.

Overview

Sporting a cool climate, an astounding ion of magnificent waterfalls, and the best coffee in all of Laos, the Bolaven Plateau has become a mainstay in any Southern Laos itinerary. Turned into an agricultural powerhouse by the French colonials and their modern farming practices, the population of French plantation owners have all departed the region since independence and the Indochina wars that devastated the plateau. Due to its strategic significance for both North Vietnamese and American forces, Bolaven was heavily bombed during the wars, and plenty of un-exploded ordnances are scattered around, making venturing off marked paths a significant risk.

While the French focus on coffee plantations remains, the rubber and banana farms of the era have since been replaced with cardamom, rattan and fruit orchards.

Bolaven means “Home of the Laven”, so it should come as no surprise that the most significant ethnicity are the Laven, but others like Alak, Katu, Tahoy and Suay also make their home on the plateau.
 

See and Do

Paksong, the centre of Laos’ coffee production, was almost completely obliterated during the Second Indochina War. As such, there’s very little to see in the town itself, but the surrounding countryside hosts several amazing waterfalls, as well as a few nature reserves.

First on the list of nearby waterfalls is Tat Fan. Sporting two streams that burst out of the surrounding forest before plummeting 120 meters, it’s an amazing sight to behold. In addition to the waterfall, a viewpoint at the Tad Fane Resort provides a spectacular view and should not be missed.

Next is Tat Gneuang, also made up of two streams, but this time ping 40 meters then flowing into the jungle instead of out of it. Due to the popularity of the site, probably the most visited waterfall in the region, it’s recommended that you either arrive early, or stay late and wait for the crowds to depart.

If you’d like a less crowded waterfall experience, Tat E-Tu with its impressive 40 meter and comfortable walk to the top might be for you.

For an even more isolated experience than E-Tu, go to Tat Katamtok, located deep in the forest. Here you can enjoy the 100 meter tall waterfall that bursts out of the lush trees without any sign of human activity despoiling the natural beauty.
Finally, Tat Champee is arguably the most interesting waterfall to visit here. While it’s the smallest of the waterfalls mentioned in this article, visitors are allowed to go for a swim in the pools, and a path takes you up behind the waterfall itself.

Should you desire even more waterfalls after all this, a visit to Tayicseua is a good option. With as many as 7 waterfalls located at this private nature reserve, some near to the entrance/restaurant and some a short trek away, there are a surprisingly low amount of visitors, letting you relax and enjoy the falls in peace and quiet.

Finally, there’s Dong Hua Sao National Park Area. Though plagued by poaching and illegal land clearance for agricultural purposes, there is still a thriving ecosystem of endangered species here, ranging from monkeys to butterflies to hornbills. However, bear in mind that tours here can only be booked from Pakse.

North of Paksong lies the serene village of Tat Lo. Despite being home to several businesses started by foreigners, this village has not succumbed to the party vibes like Vang Vieng has, and both locals and ex-pats are intent on keeping it that way. Despite not being located on the actual plateau, rather it sits right on its edge, the impressive level of English and plentiful options for day-trips makes it a prime location to serve as a base for exploring Bolaven.

The surrounding area contains three waterfalls worth seeing, the first one being Tat Soung, which cascades down the edge of the Bolaven Plateau, culminating in a 50 meter . Unfortunately, the falls have been severely damaged by the construction of a hydroelectric dam, and outside of the heavy rains of August to October, might not make for a very spectacular sight.

Nearby Tat Lo, from where the village gets its name, has suffered less from the construction of the dam, and as such is more consistent year round. However, it is not a large waterfall and unless you’re specifically interested, might not be the best use of your time, given the plethora of waterfalls to see in the region.

Finally, 500m downriver from Tat Lo is Tat Hang. Measuring 6 meters in both width and height, Tat Hang is layered over multiple steps which makes it strikingly beautiful no matter the water level.

For a more cultural experience, head over to Ban Houay Houn, where the local women of the Katu tribe are famous for their weaving. While the traditional Katu colours of red and black dominate, the weavers have diversified in modern times and now produce clothes in every colour under the sun.

Only a short drive from Tat Lo, foreigners are a rare sight in Salavan, lending it a feeling of remoteness that you wouldn’t expect. In the town, you can visit Wat Kang Salavan, a large monastery most notable for being dedicated to storing Buddhist scriptures by submerging them in a pond in an effort to keep termites away from the sacred texts.

Over by the river, you have Prince Souphanouvong’s Bridge. Due to it’s location on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the bridge was heavily bombed and destroyed in 1968 in order to deny the North Vietnamese its use. Since it still remains in its destroyed condition, it has become a bizarre yet stark contrast between a peaceful sleepy town and the horrors of war.

Salavan province is also home to some 350,000 people from various ethnic minorities, and both tours and solo-adventures to explore the ethnically diverse countryside are popular with the few travellers who make it here.

Yet another sleepy town, Sekong takes its name from the river it rests next to. The town was built from nothing in 1984, and as such doesn’t contain a lot of attractions. It’s also the smallest province in the country in terms of population, as well as one of the poorest.

Unusually for Laos, the province contains almost no temples. This is due to the fact that almost all of its inhabitants are from the 14 different tribes of ethnic minorities, with very few Lao people residing here. These minorities, unlike the majority of the Laotian population, are not Buddhist, but animist, and so the usual Laotian fare of temples and monasteries can not be found here.

Outside of town there are two waterfalls of note. First up is Tat Faek, a wide and beautiful waterfall where you’re allowed to swim in the pools. Be aware of the pa pao fish that live there though, as they’ve been known to bite swimmers with their razor sharp teeth.

Second is Tat Hua Khon, three kilometres away from Tat Faek. The falls are 7 metres tall and a staggering 100 metres wide, making it stand out among the many other waterfalls you will no doubt pay a visit to while in Bolaven.

South of Sekong, the capital of Attapeu province (also named Attapeu) lays on the confluence of the Kong and Kaman rivers. Decked out with lush trees and bushes everywhere, the town is known as “Garden Village”, and is home to a surprising amount of wild buffalo. While the town has a relaxed atmosphere and makes for a pleasant visit, the region’s pattern of unexciting towns surrounded by amazing nature holds true here as well.

First up among the surrounding sights is Saisettha, which contains a large amount of stunning Buddhist art in the form of paintings recounting the Buddha’s penultimate birth in Wat Siliawat That Inping and murals depicting the Buddha’s life in Wat Ban Xai. The third temple here, Wat Luang, serves as the final resting place for King Setthathirat.

The nearby village of Pa-Am was once an important confluence of routes part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, and as such received exceedingly heavy bombardment during the war. The main attraction here is a Russian missile platform displayed behind a fence constructed using bomb casings.

Finally, once Laos’ most pristine NPA, Dong Amphan has in recent years seen plenty of industries encroaching on its forests. Despite this, Nong Fa (Sky Blue Lake) is still a stunning sight, and worth the trip here on its own. The lake lies in an ancient volcanic crater at 1500 metres of elevation, making the views facing away from the lake just as amazing as the ones facing it. Despite the recent encroachment of industry, the park is still home to wild tigers, elephants and a huge amount of bird species. The most popular way of visiting is through a 2 day tour, with accommodation arranged in a homestay.
 

Culture & Arts

As the coffee capital of Laos, a great way to experience the culture of the region is to stay in a homestay on an actual coffee plantation. The production of coffee is one of the central pillars of the culture on the plateau, and staying at a plantation in Tat Lo will give you an excellent close-up look of how the farmers live their daily life.

The market in Salavan is another great cultural experience. Here, women from the aforementioned ethnic tribes in the surrounding countryside haul in various exotic food products acquired in the forest, such as mushrooms, ant eggs and monitor lizards.

Finally, in Sekong, there is the Sekong Provincial Historical Museum. While the ground floor is filled with the usual fair of unexploded ordnances and remnants from the war, the second floor has fantastic tribal displays, mainly of the Katu but also other tribes.
 

Food and Drink

The biggest culinary draw to Bolaven is without a doubt its coffee. Being the coffee capital of Laos, there are numerous plantations to visit, sample coffee and even stay the night at. There are also coffee tours you can book in Paksong, which lets you observe the entire life cycle of the coffee, from bean to cup, before having a taste of it yourself.

Festivals and Events

The Boub Lapeup festival is held in Toumlan, near Salavan, and focuses on paying respects and guiding the ancestors of the Katang people. Held at varying times each year, as the hosting family generally picks a time that is the most convenient for them, villagers gather to play drums and dance around a ceremonial structure. The main event, namely the sacrificing of buffaloes, follows and the sacrifices are intended to guide recently deceased relatives to join the spirit already protecting their home.
 

Overview

Once the seat of local royalty between 1713 and 1946, Champasak has lost much of its former glory and prestige. Due to the high number of nearby attractions and the famous Wat Phu Champasak, the otherwise unremarkable town has an excellent ion of options for accommodation, and for many is a more appealing base of operations for visiting the nearby World Heritage Area than hectic Pakse. Of course, aforementioned Wat Phu Champasak is the clear standout experience here, but Kiet Ngong, home of the working elephant and the Se Pian National Park Area are also memorable experiences.

See and Do

Occupying a pleasant riverside location by the Mekong, Wat Muang Kang is the oldest active temple in Champasak, and probably the most visually impressive one in all of Southern Laos. The chapel hall, inspired by Cambodian and Thai architecture, is stunning, but pales in comparison to the temple’s library. Designed as a blend between French, Vietnamese, Burmese and Lao architecture, it’s majestically ringed by a series of pillars, and topped by an unusual three tiered roof. It is said that a mystic light shines from across the river at night, reflecting off one of the temple’s towers to illuminate the holy mountain above Wat Phu Champasak.

If you have been travelling south along the Mekong, Don Daeng will probably feel familiar to you. Very much a stereotypical Mekong island, traffic is non-existent, and quiet beaches are easy to find. There is also a forest temple at the centre of the island, featuring an ancient brick stupa presumed to be related to nearby Wat Phu Champasak.

Without a doubt the main attraction in the province, the Wat Phu World Heritage Area is a major highlight for any traveller in Laos. While dwarfed by the gargantuan Angkor complex in Siem Reap, Wat Phu Champasak is surrounded by a far more visually stunning natural back, and feels decidedly mystical, bordering on spiritual. Indeed, it’s easy to see why the people of the region have worshipped here on the slopes of the holy mountain for millennia, and why UNESCO decided to designate it as a World Heritage Site in 2001.

The complex is divided into six terraces on three levels, with the topmost level containing the shrine itself. While it had been in use as a religious site for centuries prior, the buildings that we can see today were mostly built in the 1000’s AD by the Khmer Empire, making some of the buildings over a thousand years old.

As you enter the site, you’ll be greeted by the Wat Phu Exhibition Hall displaying stone work from Wat Phu as well as nearby temples and ruins. Moving on you’ll pass over a walkway flanked by “barays” or small ceremonial ponds that are replete with lotus flowers during the wet season.

Once you’ve ascended the stairs to the second level you’ll have to cross an open courtyard before getting to two sandstone pavilions flanking a series of galleries leading to the next set of stairs. Within the galleries there are displays of Hindu sculptures, depicting figures like Vishnu and Shiva. There is also Nandi Hall, behind the left platform, which once served as the ceremonial end of the ancient royal road stretching from Angkor Wat to here. Before proceeding to the final level, you may see some Thai and Lao people presenting offerings to the dvarapala (sentinel) statue guarding the ascent, so that they may have his blessing to visit the shrine on top. Two similar statues lay half buried not far away, with one of them enjoying the distinction of being the largest surviving dvarapala in any Angkorian ruin.

The third and final level contains the centrepiece of the ruins, Wat Phu itself. Housing a myriad of carvings, both Hindu and Buddhist, the shrine is fronted by a Shiva lingam that once upon a time would be bathed by water flowing from the sacred spring behind the structure, carried through sandstone pipes. Behind and around the building, you can find a Buddha footprint carved into the side of the mountain, as well as the famous Elephant and Crocodile stones. This is also a fantastic place to sit down for a rest and enjoy a magnificent view of the complex in its entirety.

Despite being on the other side of the Mekong River, Uo Moung is presumed to be part of the same temple complex and Wat Phu, though its purpose has been lost to time. Since most of the carvings and stone work from here was moved to the Wat Phu exhibition centre, there isn’t all that much to look at, and is perhaps best suited for the temple/ruin enthusiast. Nevertheless, the overgrown nature of the temple, with lush trees and green moss everywhere you look, gives you the feeling that you’ve stepped into an Indiana Jones movie, delving into forgotten ruins.

The village of Kiet Ngong, now a thriving ecotourism project, is the obvious base for treks and hikes into Se Pian National Park Area. Within the town, you will see plenty of working elephants, as well as a herd of buffalo, giving it a peculiar atmosphere. The main reason travellers visit here are the canoe trips through the swamp (available from July through March) as well as elephant riding.

Should you be on the hunt for souvenirs, or perhaps just wanting to interact more with the ethnic minorities of Laos, a visit to Ban Nong Beung, a nearby Tahoy village, should not be skipped. Famous for its woodcarving, here they craft and sell both modern products, and cultural items like masks, carefully burned to blacken the wood.

The aforementioned Se Pian NPA is an extremely vital protected area, being home to numerous endangered species, like Asiatic black bears, gibbons and Siamese crocodiles, not to mention dozens of distinct bird species. Unfortunately for the independent minded explorer, there is currently no way to visit the park on your own, but both long multi-day treks or shorter day trips can be arranged in either Kiet Ngong or Pakse. For a more off-the-beaten-track and exciting entrance to Se Pian, you can travel to Attapeu in the east and let one of the park’s three rivers carry you deep into the jungle.
 

Culture & Arts

A unique cultural experience awaits you in Champasak in the form of Shadow Puppet Theatre & Cinema Tuktuk. Here they have revived the ancient art of Shadow Puppetry, and use it to retell the famous Indian Epic, Ramayana. Additionally, every Wednesday and Saturday evening, set to a score performed by live musicians, a screening of Academy award nominated silent film Chang (1927) is held.

Another way to get a more intimate look at the local culture is to opt for homestay accommodation while visiting Kiet Ngong. The village has actually set up a common system where the 20-odd homestays in town take turns accommodating up to 2 guests at a time. Living up close to a rural Laotian family like this lets you observe local life and traditions, and if it’s harvest or planting season, you can even join in for a quick session of farm work, which is a pillar of rural Laotian living.
 

Food and Drink

Champasak doesn’t have a lot to offer in terms of dishes not found elsewhere in Laos, but the charming guesthouse restaurants are great places to enjoy standard Lao favourites like Larb or Laotian barbeque in an authentic atmosphere.

Festivals and Events

Bun Wat Phu Champasak, the biggest and most unique festival in the province is, as the name suggests, held at Wat Phu Champasak. The celebrations take place over three days during the full moon of third lunar month, which usually falls in February on the Gregorian calendar.

Most of the events are various Buddhist ceremonies, climaxing with a parade of monks receiving alms early on the last day, followed by a candlelit circumambulation of the shrines on the lower level once the sun has set.

The atmosphere is lively, and a wide variety of events can be enjoyed, from kick boxing to live comedy, music and dance. Once darkness falls, alcohol is consumed in abundant quantities, and the evenings have been known to get somewhat rowdy at times.
 

Overview

Resting on the confluence of the Mekong and Don rivers, Pakse is the capital of Champasak Province, but for travellers, its primary purpose is to serve as a gateway to Southern Laos. Lacking the lethargic atmosphere and dilapidated colonial architecture of other Mekong towns, Pakse is a great base for tours to both the Bolaven Plateau and Wat Phu Champasak. Nearby Ban Saphai village and Kho Island are also great for a relaxed look at Southern Lao culture and handicrafts.
 

See and Do

While there’s not a great amount of sights in Pakse proper, there are still a few things to see in town. First up is Wat Phou Salao, located on the opposite side of the Mekong, which houses an enormous Buddha gazing watchfully over the city, and provides the best views in the area, particularly as the sun is setting. Another monastery, Wat Luang, lies on the riverside and is the largest in Pakse. Gorgeous murals tell tales from the Buddha’s life and various other Buddhist stories.

Switching religions, Sacred Heart Cathedral may not seem like much from the outside, but within you can find some bizarre and unique paintings of Jesus travelling around Laos, meeting various ethnic groups and tribes.

Mekong cruises are also very popular here, ranging from budget options to full-on luxury yachts. Moreover, it’s the most common place to book tours to the nearby Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phu Champasak or Kiet Ngong.

Just north of Pakse is sleepy Ban Saphai village hugging the Mekong, as well as nearby Kho island. Primarily known for its weaving industry, visitors in Ban Saphai are encouraged to stop by various private houses to observe the local women plying their craft. A convenient map at the Ban Saphai Handicraft Centre, where many of the local women have set up their looms, provides you with a route for a small walking tour of the weavers’ houses.

Just across the water from Ban Saphai is little Kho island. A mere 450 metres wide, the island feels like it exists in a simpler time, independent from the outside world. There are no cars, and few motorbikes, which makes for a refreshing break compared to almost anywhere else in South East Asia. Like in Ban Saphai, the main attraction is the weavers, and visitors are again encouraged to stop by the various workshops in people’s homes.

A giant tree claimed to be 500 years old by the islands inhabitants adorns the garden of Wat Silattana Satsadalam (or Wat Don Kho), which contains a manuscript hall constructed in a fusion of French and Lao styles that makes a quick visit decidedly worth it.

If you’re here for the dry season, you’re in luck, as that means the beaches will be open and local fishermen can be chartered to take you on an impromptu fishing trip in the waters of the Mekong.

Both the village and the island are well known destinations, but despite this they’re remarkably devoid of tourists at most times, and constitutes a good half-day trip from Pakse, or a longer cultural stay at one of the available homestays.

Straddling the border between Champasak and Salavan Provinces, the enormous Phou Xieng Thong National Park Area covers more than 1200 square kilometres. As you trek through the park, you might come to feel as though you’ve left earth and stepped onto an alien planet, with bizarre outcroppings and sandstone ridges (some even containing prehistoric paintings) jutting out of the landscape.

The easiest entry point to the park is located about 50km upriver from Pakse, and the most common way to visit is through a 2 day trek into the park. This tour includes accommodation at a local village homestay inside the park, as well as a boat trip down the Mekong for your return journey. The highlight of the trip comes when you settle down for the sunset on top of Khong Mountain. However, bear in mind that these tours have to be booked in groups of at least four, so solo travellers might be out of luck.
 

Culture & Arts

Pakse is home to Talat Dao Heuang, one of the biggest markets in the entire country. Located near the Lao-Japanese bridge, it’s a great place to soak in the chaotic atmosphere and local culture, especially in the food section.

Champasak Historical Heritage Museum is definitely worth a visit for those interested in the various ethnic minorities of Laos. Cultural artefacts like Dong Son bronze drums, stone carvings from the Bolaven Plateau, musical instruments and much more is on display here. An especially impressive collection of jewellery from the Nyaheun, Suay and Laven minorities can also be found, featuring large iron ankle bracelets and ivory earrings.

While many travellers only visit Don Khoh for a half-day or day trip, perhaps the best way to get up close and personal with the local culture is to take your time here and spend the night in a local homestay. This lets you spend the evening with a local family, including local entertainment and food and really lets you feel like you’re part of the community, if only for a brief time.
 

Food and Drink

Being a river town, local favourites obviously lean towards what the Mekong can provide and include: Pan miiang baa, a kind of “make-your-own” fish sandwich, as well as soup created from algae collected from the river.

For those less than enthused about seafood, there is also Kow neeo bing, sticky rice patties that are dipped in egg and grilled.
 

Festivals and Events

While there are no festivals specifically unique to Pakse, it’s a good place to celebrate Lao New Year. Dominated by water fights in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, the celebrations take a different tack in Pakse. Families organize their own ceremonies featuring large arches made of rice plants, serving as a token of respect to the spirits of the earth and sky. While you might find yourself splashed with fragrant water containing various flowers, this is intended to wash away bad thoughts, and doesn’t come close to the intensity of water fighting in other cities. Indeed, sacred Buddha statues get most of the water, as revellers carry buckets to the city’s 9 temples to wash them. Legend has it that should you wash the Buddha at all 9 temples, you will receive good fortune for the following year.

As the festival reaches its climax, the most beautiful girl is ed as “Ms. Lao New Year” and paraded through Pakse on the back of a facsimile of a specific animal, the species of which varies year-by-year.