Northern Laos

Overview

Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, Luang Prabang resides by the sacred confluence of the Khan and Mekong rivers. Temples and monasteries dominate any visitor’s itinerary here, with its 33 gilded wats and numerous saffron clad monks.

Having received a rush of investment since the 1990’s, once dilapidated French villas have been reimagined as stunning but affordable boutique hotels and hostels. Many of these villas stand today due to Luang Prabang being a royalist stronghold during the wars, and as such escaped the intense US bombing raids that plagued the rest of Northern Laos.

Despite the flood of money and subsequent rise in the population, the city still feels like a sleepy village frozen in time and is a centre for amazing French cuisine, as well as local style Lao food.

Beyond the city there are excellent trekking opportunities to caves brimming with religious significance, stunning waterfalls and meandering mountain paths. There are also ample chances for kayaking, ziplining and river cruises. All of this natural splendour is ringed by green mountains covered in mist.
 

See and Do

By far the most imposing attraction in Luang Prabang, Phu Si hill towers over the old quarter and Royal Palace. There are two routes to reach the top; on the northern route you can view murals from the 1800’s showing famous moments in Lao history at Wat Pa Huak, and on the southern stands the large Wat Siphoutthabat Thippharam as well as Wat Thammothayalan, ringed by golden Buddhas. There is also the Buddha footprint, which seems suspiciously large for a human footprint. All three sights on the southern route are free if you don’t continue to the top.

Once you reach the top, you can enjoy the cool air, as the temple complex creates a pleasant wind tunnel effect in certain spots. While the 24 meter tall and gilded That Chomsi stupa is gorgeous, the main reason to make the climb up is to view the sun as it sets over Luang Prabang. For a small fee you can also release small birds here, though the morality of this is perhaps a little questionable.

While not quite as visually imposing as Phu Si, the Royal Palace is certainly also worth a visit. The palace itself contains a myriad of tastefully decorated rooms, with some of them preserved from before the king was captured and deposed by the Pathet Lao. In the south-eastern part of the grounds, Luang Prabang’s most important monument is housed in Wat Ho Pha Bang. The Pha Bang, which is where the city derives its name (“Luang” meaning “Royal” and “Prabang” for the Pha Bang). The 8 meter tall gold-alloy Buddha was originally a gift from the neighbouring Khmer Empire and is highly revered in Lao society. So much so that shoes, photography and bags are not allowed in its presence. Additionally, for car enthusiasts, there is the collection of cars formerly owned by the King that is now on display on palace grounds. The collection includes five classic cars kept in good condition.

For a sobering look at the continuing destruction caused by the Indochina Wars. Head to the UXO Laos Information Centre. Here you can learn about the on-going efforts to locate and disarm unexploded ordnances (UXO) all across the country, as well as the suffering caused to the local population. Should you miss the centre here, there is another one in Phonsavan.

But of course, what Luang Prabang is truly famous for is its staggering array of temples and monasteries, and it certainly doesn’t disappoint in this department. Starting near the Royal Palace, there is Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, which was spared destruction in 1887 as the raiders found its wooden ordination hall with a five tiered roof simply to beautiful to defile. Slightly further out, an easy 3km bike ride away, is Wat Pa Phon Phao, a serene meditation spot located in the forest.

On the opposite side of Phu Si hill lays Wat Wisunarat, which has now become something of an “orphanage” for Buddha statues and ordination stones rescued from various temples in disrepair. The oldest temple in Luang Prabang, Wat Manorom, can also be found here, where a 6 meter tall Buddha is housed. Finally, the cremation site for the old Laotian royalty is also in the area, Wat That Luang was first established as a religious site by Ashokan monks in the 200’s AD, and looks like it would be more at home in an ancient Greek temple complex than in South East Asia.

Continuing towards the peninsula, in the Xieng Mouane Area, you have Wat Pa Phai, featuring a detailed fresco depicting everyday Lao life during the 1800’s, and Wat Choumkhong, which has a decidedly relaxing vibe with its red treed garden. There is also Wat Xieng Mouane, its ceiling resplendently covered in gold naga, serving as a school for Luang Prabang’s monks to learn the crafts required for restoring and maintaining the city’s temples.

Saving the best for last, the upper peninsula proper is the most renowned area in the city for monasteries and temples. Probably the most famous in the whole city, Wat Xieng Thong, is located here. An amazing Tree of Life mosaic adorns its western wall, and two of the three nearby chapels house large Buddha statues. Those being Hor Dai, containing a standing Buddha, and Hor Dai Pha Sai-nyaat, nicknamed the Red Chapel by the French, housing a rare reclining Buddha.

Across the road from the customs office turned UNESCO offices, pleasantly archaic Wat Pak Khan makes its home while Wat Souvannakhili, looking more like a colonial mansion than a monastery, lies just up the road.

Finally, Wat Sensoukaram is in the running for most spectacular of the temples in Luang Prabang. With its ruby-red walls covered with detailed gold overlays, it’s no wonder it reportedly took 100,000K in donations to construct, a sum that was nothing to sneeze at in 1718.

A short boat trip across the Mekong gives you plenty of opportunities for stunning views of the river and city beyond. The boats leave from behind the royal palace at irregular intervals, and once you’ve made the crossing your first stop will be Wat Xieng Maen, which briefly housed the famous Pha Bang for seven days in 1867, when it was returned after 40 years in Thailand.

As you continue along the river road, the next attraction will be Wat Chomphet. Resting on top of a small hill, you ascend 123 steps to reach the top. While the temple itself is a shell of its former self and not particularly spectacular, the little hill gives you possibly the best view of the Mekong in Luang Prabang, only rivalled by Phu Si itself.

The last thing to see on this side of the river is Wat Longkhun, formerly a retreat for kings about to be coronated. While it’s no longer used for its former purpose, there are stunning murals of giant fish attacking sailors and fishermen, as well as Tham Sakkalin, a 100 meter long limestone cave.

Beyond the city itself, there’s a plethora of treks and activities you can take part in. The Green Jungle Flight park has become very popular, sporting dozens of ziplines that you can use to glide through the treetops.

In case you haven’t seen enough temples and Buddhas yet, take a boat or kayak trip up to the Pak Ou caves. Nestled in the limestone cliff sides that run along the shore where the Ou and Mekong Rivers reach their confluence, these two caves are home to thousands of Buddha statues, ranging from tiny at a few centimetres to humongous ones measuring as much as 6 meters.

Considered by many to be the most beautiful sight in Laos, and indeed all of South East Asia, the Tat Kuang Si waterfall simply cannot be missed during a visit to Luang Prabang. The water cascades down multiple tiers, stopping in serene turquoise pools that are open for swimming. If you’re up for a mildly challenging climb, or want to escape the more crowded pools, you can head all the way to the top where the crowds cooling off in the water will be substantially smaller. Aside from the falls themselves, there’s also a bear sanctuary (Kuang Si Rescue Centre) where you can observe rescued Asiatic Wild Moon Bears. Watching the cute little bears play and rest in the open enclosures is as much a reason to go as the waterfall itself.

The falls can be reached by tuk tuk or motorbike, and 300 meters before you arrive there’s a butterfly park (Kuang Si Butterfly Park) that you can visit if you so desire.

While not possessing the giant s and pools of Tat Kuang Si, Tat Sae waterfall is also a sight to behold. More importantly, here you can “fly” above the falls on ziplines. Bear in mind though, that unlike Tat Kuang Si, this waterfall dries up between December and August.
 

Culture & Arts

If you want to learn more about the various hill-tribe cultures in Laos, the TAEC (Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre) is a great place to start. Perfectly balanced between just enough information and not too much to overwhelm visitors, the museum also contains a café and a crafts shop.

For more arts and crafts, the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre offers tours every half hour to observe weavers, spinners and batik makers produce local traditional fabrics. For visitors with a brave tongue, you can also try a cup of worm-poo tea (made from silk worm pings) in the riverside café.

Furthermore, if you’re in Luang Prabang for the dry season, you can take one of the two narrow wooden bridges across the Nam Khan. A myriad of craft boutiques are located here, as well as fantastic cafes.

Perhaps the most unique and intimate cultural experience you can have in the city (and maybe all of Laos) is at Garavek Storytelling. Here you sit in a dark room with black curtained walls as you are regaled with stories of the city’s founding and mythology by traditional Lao storytellers, accompanied by live music on classic Lao instruments.

For the photography enthusiast, Big Tree Gallery has composite pictures displaying various scenes of rural Laos, created by photographer and film-maker Adri Berger. The gallery also contains a relaxed garden restaurant with a palm shaded terrace.

Should you wish to get up close and personal with the culture, or perhaps you wish to give something back to the city, you can head to Big Brother Mouse. This coffee shop sells books that you can then distribute to local children, perhaps even taking the time to read with them. There are also many young adults and teenagers who come here to have conversations with travellers in an effort to improve their English. This is a fantastic opportunity to have in depth conversations with actual locals over a cup of coffee.

When you’re on a night out, you will most likely be confronted with the idea of heading to the Bowling Alley once the regular bars starts closing down around midnight. Outfitted with a bar, here you can continue drinking, play a few rounds of bowling or even do some archery. Many young locals will also be present, and as such presents a chance to interact with them and learn about their way of life.
 

Food and Drink

The best place to delight in Lao cuisine is the city’s night market. Located in a narrow alleyway not far from Phu Si, the bustling market serves a range of well prepared Lao staples and several stalls operate in a buffet-style, letting you pick and choose what meats and vegetables you’d like. The barbequed duck here is particularly flavourful and rich. Local staples like Orlam, a stew made with meat, mushrooms, eggplant and small bitter-spicy woodchips added for flavouring, as well as Kai Baan, or Mekong riverweed, a popular local snack.

As the city is possibly the capital of French cuisine outside of France itself, there are many great cafes and restaurants operating in the French fashion and serving French dishes and pastries.

Perhaps the most popular spot for the locals of the city is the riverside barbeque joints, serving sin daat, or traditional Lao Barbeque. Here you pick out a ion of raw meats and vegetables to bring to your table, where a Lao style barbeque oven sits in the middle. Enjoy cooking your own food right at the table while the Mekong passes you by.

For a night out, Utopia is a great place to stop. With eclectic decorations and low tables with cushions as seating, this outdoors bar is a popular spot with backpackers, who usually go here before continuing on to the aforementioned bowling alley around midnight.

For a more sophisticated drinking experience, head over to Icon Klub. The establishment feels like a place where famous French authors from the early 1900’s would meet for drinks, and regularly features poetry slams, jam sessions and live music.
 

Festivals and Events

Bun Pi Mai, or Lao New Year, is the biggest event in Luang Prabang. Alternatively known as the “Water Festival” or less commonly “Songkran”, it spans three days in April and huge numbers of visitors arrive to take part in the festivities. The main event is a continuous water war where everyone is a potential target. People of all ages scurry around the streets with water guns and buckets filled to the brim, and anyone, including tourists, is fair game. Take care with your electronics during the festival, and make sure to wash out your eyes with bottled water at regular intervals, as the water is often taken straight from the Mekong River.

At the start of every December, the city hosts a film festival. Here the best films from 10 South East Asian countries are shown, and entry is free of charge.

During Bun Awk Phansa, held in September or October, boats race each other up and down the Mekong River, while faithful Buddhists send small boats made of banana leaves onto the river to carry off the bad luck of the previous year, as well as giving thanks to Mother Mekong and the guardian Naga (sea serpents) that supposedly reside deep in the river.

 

Overview

Mountains, rivers, forests and small villages cover the landscape of Northern Udomxai and Luang Namtha provinces. Home to over 40 ethnic minorities, the area is extremely diverse and offers travellers with a lot to do, both in the main towns of Udomxai and Luang Namtha, as well as in the smaller villages inhabited by various ethnic groups. Luang Namtha province also contains the country’s only border crossing to China accessible to foreigners.

See and Do

First up is Udomxai. This flourishing city serves as the centre for trade between Laos and nearby China, and walking down its dusty main street, it’s impossible to miss this fact. Signs in Mandarin litter the sides of the road, and as many as 25% of the population is Chinese, making the Yunnanese dialect almost as common as the Laotian.

The main attractions are several religious buildings, including Phu That Stupa where religious ceremonies are held every full moon, Wat Phu That, a charming hilltop temple well suited for cooling off in the hilltop wind, and Banjeng Temple, the most important monastery in the province sporting a “Tree of Life” made out of concrete and metal.

A stop at the Lao Red Cross office is also worth your time if you’re looking for a massage or a steam bath and want your money to go straight towards helping the local community.

While the city doesn’t have much in terms of a traveller atmosphere, many must-see locations can be reached from here with minimal effort. Foremost among these are the Chom Ong Caves, Udomxai’s main attraction. The caves often reach gargantuan dimensions, as high as 40 meters, and ancient stalactites extend down from the ceiling into the cavernous space.

Nearby Nam Kat Waterfall, a favourite picnic spot for the locals, can be reached by motorbike or with a 13.5 kilometre hike. The hike is a relaxed one however, with the only challenging part being the final 500 meter climb to the waterfall itself.

Finally there is the Nam Kat Yorla Pa Adventure Park, where numerous activities like cycling, trekking, ziplining, abseiling, rock climbing and shooting can be taken part in. The packages also include accommodation in comfortable modern rooms, or alternatively in tree houses among the branches.

All of these treks and tours can be arranged from Udomxai’s excellent tour office, which is possibly the best organized one in the entire country.

Just 28km from Udomxai on the road to Phongsali, Muang La is host to the most celebrated Buddha Statue in all of Northern Laos, the famous Pra Singkham Buddha. Local legend claims it was crafted in Sri Lanka shortly after the Buddha’s death, and was subsequently transported to Laos in 838AD where it found its original home in Singkham Cave. The cave can still be visited, but it now houses a replica, as the real statue was moved to a temple constructed specifically for its housing by 1457AD. Local custom says that you can make any wish to the Buddha and it will be granted.

Further north again, Boten serves as the country’s only way for foreigners to cross the border into China. Before 2011, the town was a booming hub due to its nightlife and casinos catering to Chinese citizens. However, in 2011, China banned its citizens from gambling here, and the local economy was devastated. Due to this the only real reason to visit anymore is to cross into China, and as options for accommodation and food are sparse, it’s recommended that you cross the border instead of staying in Boten.

Lovely Luang Namtha however is packed to the brim with activities for all kinds of travellers. The most visually striking element of the town is the Golden Stupa, resting on a ridgeline northwest of town; it glitters majestically in the light of the sun.

Easily the most welcoming town in Northern Laos, it’s an excellent base for exploring nearby Nam Ha National Park. The Park is the one of the most accessible of all the natural preserves in the country, and many small villages dot the park. To ensure ecologically responsible tourism, tour groups are small, and the local villagers are receiving assistance in improving their forestry and farming techniques to protect the natural glory of the park. Nearby Vieng Phuka serves as an alternative to Luang Namtha for visiting Nam Ha, and may appeal to the more enterprising traveller searching for a less crowded and touristic tour.

As you approach the Burmese border, you are entering the territory of the Golden Triangle, the biggest source of Opium in the world. As you can imagine, being on the former Opium Trail, towns here can get somewhat shadier than is normal for the region, with smugglers and drug traffickers active in Xieng Kok and decreasingly in Muang Sing, where thankfully trekking has moved in to replace smuggling as the primary economic activity. Said trekking is usually to nearby Minority Villages, which are the main motivation for travellers to visit the town. These treks can be done alone on a motorbike, or if you wish for a more engaging experience, a tour guide can be hired for a relatively low price.

Culture & Arts

A good first stop to learn about the local culture and customs is the Udomxai Museum. While most of the museum is dedicated to communist propaganda, there are also ethnic costumes and local rural tools on display.

You can then pay a visit to PMC (Productivity & Marketing Centre of Oudomxay) for an introduction to local products such as fabrics made from jungle vines and handmade paper products and bags as well as incense. The centre is funded partly by the UN Office on Drugs and Crime in an effort to strengthen non-drug based commerce in the province.

For people interested in arts and crafts, the local tourist office organizes courses in paper making in the local fashion, as well as a cooking course including a trip to the market to purchase ingredients.

Another museum can be found in Luang Namtha, this time dedicating more floor space to local artefacts, like ethnic clothing, Khamu bronze drums and ceramics made by various ethnic groups.

There is also the nearby village of Ban Nam Di where you can see the local Lao Huay women still wearing their traditional indigo tunics with purple belts and silver jewellery.

For a taste of the country’s colonial past, a walk down the main road of Muang Sing lets you view spectacular 1920’s mansions built in a Lao-French hybrid architectural style. The most distinctive of these buildings plays host to the Tribal Museum where costume displays and cultural artefacts are centre stage. You can also watch a 40 minute documentary on the Akha people.

While nearby Xieng Kok doesn’t have much going for it in terms of attractions, its market days are a fascinating experience for any traveller. Taking place on the 14th and 28th each month, the markets attract people from the surrounding hill tribes as well as foreign traders.
 

Food and Drink

In Luang Namtha, various ethnic dishes from the Khamu, Tai Dam and Akha peoples can be sampled, should you not feel quite brave enough to order a full meal.

Different regional variations of Jqaou can also be had here, which are different kinds of dipping sauce for sticky rice.
 

Festivals and Events

On the full moon of the 12th lunar month (between late October and mid November), you can head to Muang Sing to experience the local full moon festival, with a lively carnival atmosphere and traditional dance performances everywhere.

 

Overview

While mountains clad in green forest is not an unusual sight in northern Laos, in Muang Ngoi, specifically at Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi Neua it moves into the extraordinary. Towering karst peaks and cliffs rise out of the Ou River in spectacular fashion, making for some truly astounding views. Due to the areas vicinity to Luang Prabang, it makes for an excellent gateway to the mountainous rural terrain of northern Laos, or a convenient halfway point between Luang Prabang and Sam Neua or Phonsovan.

See and Do

For many, the first stop in Muang Ngoi is Nong Khiaw. In this travellers' haven, you can find good food and comfortable accommodation, as well as peaceful mountain hikes to various caves and viewpoints.

The town straddles the Ou River, connected by a long bridge spanning the water. After the wholesale destruction of much of the former district headquarters, Muang Ngoi Neua, Nong Khiaw was made the new headquarters, and is confusingly sometimes referred to as simply Muang Ngoi.

While the village life is an excellent experience, the true appeal of Nong Khiaw lies in its nature. Tham Pha Thok Caves offers a view into how the local people survived the Indochina Wars, having taken refuge in the cave system. As you enter, you’re greeted by a large 30m high cave, followed by a much smaller and narrower cave best avoided by those of a claustrophobic nature.

If caves are not your cup of tea, you can also hike up to the Pha Daeng Peak Viewpoint or the Sleeping Woman Viewpoint.

Pha Daeng Peak is reached by a 1.5 hour walk on a decently maintained path that takes you up Pha Daeng Mountain, directly overlooking the town. The best times to arrive is at sunset to take in the fading light as the sun descends below the steep cliffs, or early in the morning to see the valley blanketed in mist and the mountains shining gold with sunlight.
The Sleeping Woman Viewpoint however, offers a view that nearly rivals Pha Daeng Peak, but with easier access, being only a kilometre and a roughly 1 hour walk from town.

Further north, Muang Ngoi Neua is reachable via a short 75 minute boat ride upriver from Nong Khiaw. This relaxed and idyllic village is the perfect place for a weary traveller to rest and relax before continuing on their journey. As you wander along the villages 500 meter long unpaved road, domesticated animals can be seen anywhere, from herds of cows to roosters.

Numerous activities are offered in the chilled village, including fishing, mountain biking, kayaking and tubing. Kayaking especially is a wonderful way to experience the serene atmosphere as you glide along the river. An evening at the riverbank to enjoy the sunset as it glitters on the gentle waters is also highly recommended.
 

Culture & Arts

While the once-famous monasteries of Muang Ngoi Neua were all destroyed in the turbulent past of the town, having been heavily bombed during the Indochina wars, one of them, Wat Okadsayaram has been rebuilt. If you get up early enough, here you can witness the locals delivering alms in the early morning hours.

For a more relaxing cultural experience, you can enjoy a traditional Lao herbal steam bath in Nong Khiaw.
However, by far the most authentic way to experience the culture of the region is to walk to the various villages surrounding Muang Ngoi Neua. The three closest villages are Huay Sen, Ban Na and Guay Bo.

Huay Sen offers the most authentic and rustic vibe with almost all the buildings featuring traditional stilt architecture. Further away, Ban Na feels less rustic but offers a stunning view of what seems like an unending ocean of rice fields. Finally, reaching Guay Bo requires fording a medium-sized river, but you’ll be rewarded with a village that while less serene than Huay Sen, sports plenty of bamboo and stilt houses.

Food and Drink

While great Western and Indian food is available, especially in Nong Khiaw, there are plenty of local offerings to enjoy as well. Lao staples like Larb or Laotian barbeque is of course everywhere, but more exotic meals like Buffalo steak or regional specialties like Mok Phaa (steamed fish in banana leaves) can also be found.

The region also produces its own local sausages (Muang Ngoi sausage) and a lovely stew called Lao Suzy (with potatoes, carrots, eggplants and onions) is popular with locals and travellers alike.
 

Festivals and Events

While there are no festivals in Muang Ngoi that are wholly unique to the area, it’s a good place to celebrate the second most important Buddhist festival, Magha Puja. Held on the full moon day of the third lunar month, the festival is meant to celebrate the ideal Buddhist community, and as such, revellers are meant to commit good acts and avoid sin during the festivities, in order to purify one’s mind.

Overview

While it may be South East Asia’s smallest capital, Vientiane lacks nothing in terms of character and atmosphere. Sporting an obvious French influence and a smattering of later Soviet style buildings, the city is organized in a simple grid pattern and all its attractions are easily reached on foot or by bicycle. Nearby Phou Khao Khouay National Park offers a reprieve from the big city for the more nature-focused traveller.
    Further south, Vang Vieng serves as the “Adventure Capital” of Laos, now that the increasingly toxic party atmosphere has been cracked down on as a result of deaths. Now this small town set amidst an absolutely stunning landscape offers copious amounts of activities for the adventurous types.
 

See and Do

Despite being a relatively large city, Vientiane is a pedestrians dream. The majority of the city’s sights are located in the dense city centre, and almost everything else is easily reachable with a quick bike ride or walk.

Perhaps the most stunning monument in the city is Patuxai, Vientiane’s very own Arc De Triomphe. Officially named the “Victory Monument” it celebrates those that lost their lives in the pre-revolutionary wars. Constructed in 1969, it looks a little out of place amongst the more traditional monuments, but is a spectacular structure nonetheless.

Like everywhere in Laos, there are also many temples to visit. Wat Si Saket has the distinction of being the oldest in Vientiane, while Haw Pha Kaeo once served as the original resting place of the famous Emerald Buddha. The most visited temple is Wat Si Muang, which is home to the “city pillar” said to be where the guardian spirit of Vientiane resides, as well as a copy of the Emerald Buddha and an older Bronze Buddha that the locals believe can grant wishes. In Wat Chathabuli, an even larger bronze Buddha sits overlooking the mighty Mekong while Wat Mixai features imposing heavy gates flanked by ever watchful guardian statues.

Finally you have Wat Ong Tey Mahawihan. Situated on a site used for religious ceremonies since at least the 200’s AD, it was sadly destroyed during the Indochina wars, but has since been rebuilt to its former glory.

Pha That Luang is easily the country’s most important monument, and viewing it is a must for any visitor to Vientiane. Buddhist doctrine is engraved around the stupa in three tiers, and guests are encouraged to spend their time there in contemplation of these ideas and maxims. According to local legend, the pillar was constructed by Buddhist missionaries from Ashokan India, for the purpose of housing one of the Buddhas breastbones, which they had transported to Laos.

Perhaps the most influential individual in Laotian history, Kaysone Phomivan is certainly revered as a national hero in modern Laos. To learn more about the man, you can visit his former house, now named the Kaysone Phomivan Memorial situated in a former CIA/USAID compound confiscated by the Pathet Lao in 1975. The living quarters are kept astoundingly undisturbed, with half empty bottles of scotch in the cabinet, tacky souvenirs from Soviet Europe on display, and winter coats used for state visits to Moscow hanging in the wardrobe.

Aside from his house, there is also an entire museum (the Kaysone Phomivan Museum) dedicated to chronicling his life and rise to influence in Laos. Sadly many of the exhibits do not include translations to English or French, but there are guides who can be chartered to translate and explain where necessary.

A remnant of a traumatic moment in the city’s history, the That Dam stupa was once resplendently covered in gold, but since Siamese invaders looted the golden plating, it has remained black and scarred in mourning and outrage at the event.

For the coffee lovers, a stop at Sinouk Coffee Pavilion is practically mandatory. Situated in the headquarters of famous Sinouk Coffee, you can spend a few hours observing and learning about the coffee production, all the way from the beans to the finished cup, which you will get to taste.

If you’re up for a quick bicycle or tuk tuk ride to reach some of the more outlying attractions, you can head to Xieng Khuan, colloquially known as Buddha Park. Littered with sculptures from both Buddhist and Hindu mythologies, it was put together by eccentric Shaman Luang Pu, in order to combine the iconographies of both religions into a mesmerizing collage.

Also situated slightly out of Vientiane’s centre is Ocean Park. A bustling waterpark popular with both foreigners and locals alike, sporting a fun pirate theme and plenty of water-based activities.

Once you’ve had enough of the big city, take a trip out to Phu Khau Khuay National Park Area. Covering over 2000 square kilometres, the park is by far the most accessible protected area in Laos, and treks ranging from a few hours to three days can be had here. The park itself contains three major rivers flowing out of a sandstone mountain range, and is home to numerous species of endangered wildlife. There are also plenty of spectacular waterfalls in the park.

From nearby Ban Na, you can set out on day long treks to Tat Fa waterfall, or a shorter 1 hour trek to the old elephant observation post, where you can then spend the night under a mosquito net atop the tower, while the guides cook a traditional Lao dinner.

From the picturesque riverside village of Ban hat Khai, you can trek into the cliffs of Pha Luang, or the forests of Huay Khi Ling. You can also organize camping trips, tents and all, to one of the three nearby waterfalls, Tat Xai, Pha Xai and Tat Leuk.

Finally you have Ang Nam Ngum, a massive artificial lake created by the damming of the Ngum river in 1971. The lake offers stunning sunset views from both the shore and peaceful lake cruises. What were formerly the peaks of the valley are now small isolated islands. Two of these islands were used to exile prostitutes and petty criminals after the Pathet Lao takeover of the country in 1975.

Once the party capital of Laos, Vang Vieng has now become a thriving adventure centre, after the government cracked down on the drug trade and rave bars in town. In the town itself there’s not much to see, as the buildings are uninspired concrete structures, but a quick hop across the river and you’ll find yourself in rural paradise.

Activities are plentiful, with the most popular being tubing, kayaking, rock climbing and ziplining. The tubing takes you about 3,5km down the Song River back to Vang Vieng from the starting point. While this used to be a prime activity for drunk teenagers on a gap year, it’s strongly recommended that you do this sober, as the river can flow fast at times.
If you prefer more control while you’re on the river, you may prefer kayaking to tubing. This activity is particularly convenient as a means to reach the many caves in the surrounding area, and many tour operators offer combined tours with both kayaking and caving or rock climbing.

The highlight of the caves is unquestionably Tham Nam, 500 meters long with a small river flowing out of its entrance, giving it a magical look. Tham Jang is perhaps the most famous, as it served as a bunker to defend against invading Chinese war bands in the early 1800’s. Tham Hoi is absolutely massive at 3km long, and even contains a vast underground lake. Tham Phu Kham is also gigantic and features another underground lagoon, this one sacred to the local population and travellers are permitted to take a swim in the calm cave waters to cool down. For a more untouched cavern, pay Tham Loup a visit, where giant stalactites crawl down from the ceiling.

The limestone walls around the village have gained a reputation as one of the foremost rock climbing spots in all of South East Asia, and the locals have seized on this, creating dozens of climbing routes. These range from relatively non-challenging routes at Tham Non to the more difficult ones at Sleeping Wall, where some of the routes have terrifying overhangs you need to overcome. Bear in mind that rock climbing can for the most part only be done between October and May, as it’s too wet otherwise.

For travellers looking for an adrenaline hit, ziplining through the treetops is a perfect option that has long been popular in Vang Vieng, or if you want to get even higher, you can hop in a hot air balloon for a 40 minute flight. This lets you enjoy a magnificent panoramic view of the gorgeous landscape around the town.
 

Culture & Arts    

As the capital of Laos, Vientiane has plenty to offer in terms of culture and arts. The Centre Culturel et de Cooperation Linguistique hosts dance and art exhibitions, discussions on literature, live music and even French cult films.
In the Lao National Opera Theatre, you can see classical operas, or traditional Lao plays and performances.
For something livelier, you can pay the National Circus a visit, featuring spectacular acrobatics and even clowns.

There are also a couple of museums in Vientiane where you can get a taste of the local culture. First, the Lao National Museum, where many of the collections focus on the revolution, is appropriately zealous. You also have the Lao Textile Museum, displaying a range of traditional Lao textiles, although a visit should be booked beforehand.

Should you fancy a night out, you might consider giving the Lao Bowling Centre a visit. This bowling alley is one of the few establishments that are allowed to stay open late into the night, and is the traditional way for young Laotians to spend a night out on the town. Play some bowling, drink beer Lao, and hang out with the locals for a truly memorable night out in Vientiane.
 

Food and Drink

Similarly, Vientiane has a lot to offer travellers’ palettes. A wide variety of international and fusion food can easily be found, as well as modern reimagining’s of Lao staples like Larb. Mekong fish is also a local favourite, either grilled or as part of Koy Pqa, a freshwater fish salad.

More than anything else, noodles is what Vientiane does best. Hundreds of different variations exist, with perhaps the most popular being Fer, a local version of the Vietnamese Pho.
 

Festivals and Events

Pi Mai, the Lao New Year (sometimes known as Songkran), is celebrated in mid April and is probably the country’s most famous festival. Lasting for three days, the celebration is one long water war, where everyone, including tourists are considered fair game. Get yourself a water-gun and join in on the fun, just watch out for sneaky youngsters waiting to dump a bucket of water on your head! While the festival is amazing fun and should not be missed, you should remember to regularly wash out your eyes using bottled water, as the water guns are often filled with water taken straight from the Mekong.

By comparison, Bun Pha That Luang, celebrated in early November, may seem like an almost relaxed affair. It’s the biggest temple fair in Laos, and it starts with a massive Circumambulation around Wat Si Muang, followed by a procession to Pha That Luang, which is beautifully illuminated at night all week long. After a week of festivities, the celebration climaxes on the morning of the full moon with the dak baht ceremony, consisting of thousands of monks coming from all around Laos to receive alms from the citizens.

Finally, in October, Bun Nam is celebrated by numerous boat races down the Mekong, while the streets along the shore are lined with food stalls, discos, carnival games and beer gardens. The festival lasts for three days and nights, and feels entirely out of the ordinary compared to your more standard celebrations.

 

Overview

The region surrounding the middle stretch of the Mekong River is usually only seen by foreigners from the river itself, as they travel through on slow boats between Thailand and Luang Prabang, but should you decide to stop here, there is plenty to see and do.

The area consists of two provinces. Bokeo (meaning “Gem Mine”, so named for its sapphire deposits), is sparsely populated but even so is home to as many as 34 ethnicities. Sainyabuli on the other hand, is famous for being the “Elephant Capital” of Laos and it’s here that you can pay a visit to the Elephant Conservation Centre, easily the province’s primary attraction.

Travellers should bear in mind that outside of Huay Xai and Pak Beng, English levels are not the best, so a Lao phrase book may come in handy. For particularly adventurous travellers, Laos’ “final frontier” lies in the western reaches of Sainyabuli, waiting for you to explore it.
 

See and Do

Situated on the Mekong and subsequently the Thai border like it is, Huay Xai is many travellers’ first look at Laos. While the town itself may seem uninteresting, at night it comes to life with fairly lights and street food vendors lining the streets. There are also a collection of temples you can visit here, namely Wat Thasuvanna Phakham, Wat Khonekeo Xaiyaram and finally Wat Keophone Savanthanaram, where notably you can see depictions of gruesome torture scenes on the north wall.

Additionally, you can pay a visit to Fort Carnot, an old colonial stronghold constructed by the French. Unfortunately, not much remains of the fort, but two towers and the gateway are still standing and it’s an interesting reminder of Laos’ colonial history.

The main reason anyone visits Huay Xai beyond transiting through, is the famous Gibbon Experience. Consisting of a series of ziplines through the lush jungle treetops, visitors get to play Tarzan for either 2 or 3 days. While visitors opting for the 2-day Express option are unlikely to see any wild gibbons, the 3 day experience offers accommodation in tree houses built close to where the Gibbons make their home. These idyllic little tree houses are constructed with ample space between them, ensuring an isolated vibe as you round out the day.

The Gibbon Experience has also become a model around the world for ecologically and socially responsible tourism. It’s run by local people in the area who used to see the jungle as a hunting ground, who were then convinced to pivot their lifestyle into becoming the guardians of the forest instead. Despite making such a radical change to their way of life, the villagers now actually make far more money to take home to their families and communities than they ever did hunting in the fragile ecosystem.

Venturing into the countryside around Huay Xai, you can witness two polar opposite extremes. First are the ruins of Souvannakhomkharn, an ancient city refounded in the 1560’s. While it can be difficult to get to due to access roads in frustratingly bad condition, and there’s not a whole lot that remains of the city, the ruins still provide a peaceful and magical atmosphere that you can’t help but get caught up in.

For the other end of the spectrum, you have the Golden Triangle, the Las Vegas of Laos a few kilometres to the north of Ton Pheung. Here the otherwise unremarkable route 3 resembles a facsimile of the Vegas Strip, sporting hotels, casinos, and even a miniature Big Ben. This gargantuan entertainment complex is not yet finished, but is still an incredibly odd sight set in the Laotian countryside.

Mostly known as the stopping point for the slow boat journey between Luang Prabang and Thailand, Pak Beng is a charming little town where you can enjoy some time disconnected from the rest of the world, as the towns power supply is shut down at 9pm every night. Wat Sin Jong Jaeng, a temple overlooking the Mekong, was built in the early colonial period, and on a mural on one of its walls, you can spot a depiction of a moustached man with a hat, umbrella and big nose, presumably one of the early European visitors to the area.

Sainyabuli, known as the “Elephant capital” of Laos, is a surprisingly urban place for the region, and the town itself has little to offer to travellers outside of their yearly elephant festival. However, a mere 9km southwest lays the serene Nam Tien lake, a great place to enjoy the sunset.

The lake is also home to the Elephant Conservation Centre, which to many is the real reason they come to Sainyabuli. The centre offers 2 and 3 day experiences, where you get to participate in numerous activities with the elephants ranging from feeding them to observing them bathe and socialize from unseen viewing stations. The experience also includes a tour of the facilities, including the elephant hospital where you can see a veterinarian giving a routine check-up to one of their charges. The information centre offers some particularly depressing statistics. Only 400 elephants remain in the wild in Laos, with an additional 450 surviving in captivity, usually used for tourism and logging. Neither existence is something to envy, as the ones in the wild spend their whole lives fleeing poachers, while captive elephants are overworked, often forced to do up to 20 treks a day carrying tourists on their back. Even worse, out of 10 elephants born in Laos, only 2 survive to old age.

It’s these facts that inspired the Centre in the first place, and they pay mahouts (the elephant’s human handlers, a life-long relationship almost akin to a marriage) the equivalent of three years salary to allow their female elephants to breed at the centre and stay for two years of “maternity leave”.

If you’re making your way between Sainyabuli and Loei in Thailand, you are almost guaranteed to make a stop in Pak Lai. While there’s not a lot to see in the town in terms of attractions, you can observe elderly Buddhist monks at Wat Sisavang, as well as some interesting colonial architecture along the town’s main road.
 

Culture & Arts

A good way to experience the local culture is a visit to the Sainyabuli Night Market, but at the end of the day, the regions culture is intimately entwined with elephants. For those with an interest in elephants, or simply a wish to get a more intimate look at Lao lifestyle, the Elephant Conservation Centre offers a 7 day volunteering experience, where you live and eat with the local mahouts and staff which besides letting you help these magnificent and threatened creatures, also gives you plenty of insight into how the people there live their lives.

In Pak Beng, you can head out of town and visit one of the many Hmong villages in the area, either on your own with a motorbike, or with a guide.
 

Food and Drink

Hmong food can be found in several restaurants in Huay Xai, often produced organically. Exotic foods like frogs and fried crocodile are also available for those with a strong stomach or exotic tastes. Should you be in the mood for drinking, stop by Daauw for its signature “Laojitos”, which are mojitos made from Lao-Lao whiskey.

While Pak Beng may be a small village nestled against the Mekong, there are surprising amount of Indian restaurants, and Indian/Lao fusion like Buffalo Masala is a must-try while you’re there.

In Sainyabuli there are a plethora of local snacks to try. From traditional sweets known as Khanom, to more esoteric ones like fried crickets, wasps and bamboo worms.

Festivals and Events

Every year in mid February, an Elephant festival is held in Sainyabuli. Lasting for two days, you can observe elephant parades and demonstrations, as well as music and theatre. There are also numerous beer tents for you to sit down in and enjoy a Lao beer should you feel the need.

Overview

Xieng Khuang and Hua Phan lie in north-eastern Laos along the border with Vietnam. These sparsely populated provinces are home to meandering roads, the mysterious Plain of Jars and the stunningly beautiful Vieng Xai Caves. Featuring the least visited provincial capital in Laos (Sam Neua); these two north-easterly provinces are truly off the beaten track and can provide you with an authentic view into Northern Laotian daily life. It also sports a very forgiving climate, never getting too hot or too cold, making it a great destination at any time of year.

The region was devastated during the Indochina wars in neighbouring Vietnam, as it came under siege by American bombers trying to clear it of North Vietnamese forces. As a result, the towns are highly functional, as they all had to be rebuilt in the following years nearly from the ground up. Because of this, the main reason to visit the area is not its towns, but rather its magnificent natural beauty and authentic atmosphere.
 

See and Do

Phonsavan, the capital of Xieng Khuang, is an excellent starting point for exploring the two provinces. When the former capital Muang Khoun was completely destroyed during the Indochina wars, Phonsovan was built in the late 1970’s to serve as the new capital. The town sports a long winding main street that makes it look almost like a setting for a Spaghetti Western, minus the tumbleweeds.

Here you can visit the UXO Information Centre, run by a British non-profit that has been working to clear Laos of its unexploded bombs left over from the Indochina wars. In the centre you can see examples of bombs, read about the immense destruction caused in the region by the wars and watch screenings of documentaries Bomb Harvest, Surviving the Peace and Bombies in the evening. These are all fantastic (albeit heart-breaking) films showcasing the continuing struggle posed by these unexploded ordnances.

Outside of the town, the countryside is covered in rolling green hills and verdant pine forests and it’s here that the regions true appeal shines through and also where you will find its most famous attraction, the mysterious Plain of Jars. Named for the giant stone jars whose creators and origins have been lost to the mist of time, the “Plain” is actually an area spanning hundreds of square kilometres. While smaller jars have long since been carried away, there remains approximately 2500 larger artefacts, among them jars, jar fragments and “lids”. Considering the sheer devastation caused by carpet-bombing during the wars, it’s truly amazing that any survived at all, and many of the jar sites are yet to be cleared of unexploded ordnances. Sites 1, 2 and 3 are the most impressive, with Site 1 being the home to the largest jar in all the sites, the mighty Hai Jeuam, weighing in at around 6 tonnes.

You can also visit Tham Piu Cave, a sombre site where thousands of residents took refuge during the wars. In 1969 tragedy struck here as a rocket ended the life of 374 people hiding there. Their remains are still buried in the rubble and this provides a stark contrast with the beauty of the cave and the surrounding area.

Luckily not all of the natural sites in the region sports such a tragic past. There are numerous waterfalls, such as Tad Ka and Tad Lang, where you can watch the clear waters cascade down over multiple tiers and hundreds of meters. Additionally you also have the hot springs near Muang Kham, and while the springs themselves are too hot for bathing, they are a spectacular sight to behold.

Further north, the town of Vieng Thong sits in the middle of Nam Et/Phou Louey national park. The town itself is fairly unimpressive, but the surrounding park and wildlife is an absolute must-see in Northern Laos. Here you can witness a plethora of wildlife, like Asian golden cats, gibbons and river otters. The park is also home to tigers, who actually gave the town its original name (“Muang Hiam” meaning “Watch out” in the Tai Daeng language) but sadly only about a dozen remain, so spotting one is an increasingly rare occurrence. Both multi-day treks through the park and night-time safaris can be enjoyed here.

Sam Neua, the capital of Hua Phan Province, feels almost like a relic of Soviet times, featuring brutalist architecture and Spartan communist monuments. It is the least visited provincial capital in Laos, and therefore feels well off the beaten track. The bizarre Suan Keo Lak Meung monument, displaying four concrete pincers holding a glittery disco ball, is an unintentionally comedic contrast to the stark communist decorations surrounding it.

A visit to the town’s suspension bridge to take in the river views is also a worthwhile experience, and the town serves as an excellent base for visiting the Vieng Xai caves, which once served as a base for the Pathet Lao and housed as many as 20,000 people in its “Hidden City”.
 

Culture & Arts

The culture of Xieng Khuang and Hua Phan is a highly diverse one. The region is home to multiple ethnic groups, the biggest and most famous of which being the Hmong, but also the Phuan (from whom the Hua Phan province derives its name), the Khmu and the Tai Dam. The area is also home to smaller groups of Laotian Chinese and Vietnamese.

This extreme ethnic diversity means that there is plenty of variation in the local culture for you to take in, and perhaps the best way to get a demonstration of this reality is through the markets of Sam Neua.

First there’s the main market, which is well stocked with consumer goods from neighbouring Vietnam and China, but also offers numerous regional products like textiles crafted in the local style and antique coins and silverware from made by jewellers to serve as decorations in tribal headgear.

Perhaps even more fascinating is the food market, where many local ingredients can be seen and purchased. Anything from field rats with their stomachs cut open (to prove the freshness of the animals entrails), to fresh meats and vegetables to banana leaves stuffed with insects, is on display here, and it serves as a great chance to experience the regions local culture and food.

Another great way to get a taste of the local culture, this time Phuan culture specifically, is to visit the village of Ban Naphia, also known as “Spoon Village”, which lies a short 30km drive south of Phonsavan. Here the Phuan inhabitants craft spoons and other silverware made out of aluminium from defused ordnances left over from the Indochina wars. During your time in the village you can peruse the silverware, learn more about the crafting process and talk to the villagers to gain insight into their way of life.
 

Food and Drink

Due to its cool climate and elevation, the region produces many unique foods that are considered rare or simply not available in the rest of the country. Among these are the world famous Matsutake mushrooms, which are eaten as part of a dish, or infused in local Lao-Lao whiskey. While the mushrooms are considered an expensive luxury in the rest of the world (exported for US$30-40/kg), here they grow in abundance at the roots of pine trees.

Another peculiar food product is “Nok Ann Toong”, or “sour swallow”. Beginning in August-September, migratory swallows from Siberia visit Xieng Khuang to perch on dust platforms scattered across the rolling hills. The swallows are then captured and butchered, before being fermented. Finally the locals will fry the birds or cook them in a stew, usually whole, minus the feathers.
 

Festivals and Events

By far the most celebrated festival in the provinces is the Hmong New Year, which takes place in December from the 15th day of the ascending moon, once the harvest work has finished. The festival takes place over 10 days, and is accompanied by many activities, including dances, songs, bull fights, and top-spinning competitions. In Hmong culture, it’s also the main occasion for finding a spouse, and many American Hmong return to Phonsovan and other towns during this festival to look for a spouse and meet their families in Laos.

The Hmong courting ritual involves the tossing of the makkono, a small fabric ball, between young men and women, sometimes for hours. The men and women form rows facing each other, and throw the ball back and forth to their partner on the opposite team. If a ball is fumbled or ped, an artefact is given to the partner, and these artefacts can then only be recovered by reciting love songs to their partner. While in certain areas like China the traditional singing has given way to tape recorders or mp3 players playing their favourite love songs, the old way of doing things is still alive and well in north-eastern Laos.

 

Overview

Existing in a space between Lao and Chinese culture, Phongsali is a rugged province home to traditional hill tribes and stunning mountain views. Muang Khua is the most visited and easily accessible town in the province, and serves as a great gateway to the less reachable areas further north. Only one asphalt road runs from Muang Khua north to Phongsali and further to China. However, don’t plan any excursions into China from here, as foreigners are prohibited from crossing the border anywhere in the province. It does however serve as a fantastic transit point from Laos to Vietnam, taking you to Dien Bien Phu on the Viet side of the border.

See and Do

While not as scenic as Nong Khiaw, Muang Khua possesses a certain charm with its bright pastel coloured houses and surrounding starburst palm trees. The town itself features little in terms of sightseeing, serving mainly as a gateway to the natural beauty and trekking opportunities further north. There is however lively markets to explore and a beautiful temple. The suspension bridge also offers an elevated view of the Ou and Phak rivers as they reach their confluence and the soaring mountains in the background that should not be missed.

Further north, Phongsali town rests on top of a ridge top plateau draped in mist. The inhabitants are a mix of Phu Noi and Yunnanese, and the climate can shift abruptly from pleasantly warm to freezing cold. Going in winter you should expect freezing temperatures at night and warm/water proof clothing is recommended at any time of year.

While the wooden Yunnanese buildings and Phu Fa Peak dwarfing the village makes for an interesting sight, the town is not the main attraction in the area, feeling somewhat unfriendly, which is unusual for Laos. Do not fear however, as the trekking you can have in the surrounding area makes the journey here completely worth it.

Probably the most famous village around Phongsali, Ban Komaen, is renowned for its Chinese tea. So much so that the village is home to what is thought to be the world’s oldest tea bushes, coming in at over 400 years old. The village also features stunning views of the surrounding valley, extending a full 360 degrees from the viewpoint behind the school. Ban Komaen lies roughly 15km away from Phongsali and is best reached by motorbike or tuk-tuk.

For a truly “off the grid” experience, take the hour long bus ride from Phongsali to Hat Sa, where you can spend the night in woven bamboo huts, eat local cuisine at the village’s solitary restaurant and settle in for a night disconnected from the outside world, as the towns power supply shuts off at 9pm.

Continuing off the beaten track, Phu Den Din National Park provides an excellent opportunity to get some truly spectacular views of the lush forest that carpets the mountainous landscape. At this time, the only legal way to see it however is on the daily kayaking trips down the Ou River between Hat Sa and Ban Tha.
 

Culture & Arts

To get a taste of the culture of the province, a good start is visiting the Wat in Muang Khua, a tranquil temple serving as one of the towns’ two proper attractions.

Treks to neighbouring villages inhabited by Akha tribes can also be organized from here, ranging from 1 day excursions to full weeks of visiting villages while volunteering, helping out with various tasks. For the socially-conscious traveller eager to get a close-up look of the Akha culture, this is a wonderful experience which allows you to leave the area better off than when you arrived.

In Phongsali, the Museum of Tribes is worth a visit. Here you can deepen your understanding of the culture and religion of the various ethnic groups of the province, and view historical photographs in addition to displays of local garments that you will encounter everywhere in Phongsali.
 

Food and Drink

The area is famous for its Chinese style tea, and this can be had almost anywhere, especially in Ban Komaen, known as “Tea Village”.

Other local staples include Khao Soi, a soup with wide rice noodles, pork, tomatoes, fermented soy beans, chillies, shallots and garlic and then topped with pork rind, bean sprouts, chopped scallions and chopped coriander. This local favourite can be found in many regions of Laos, but with great variations in how it’s prepared.

You can also try your hand at more exotic local dishes, such as pigs liver or local Lao-Lao whiskey fermented over raspberry leaves.
 

Festivals and Events

Due to its great ethnic diversity, several distinct new years celebrations take place in Phongsali. While Pi Mai Lao (Lao new year) is the biggest festival, it is also celebrated all over the country and can be enjoyed elsewhere like in Luang Prabang or Vientiane. More unique to Phongsali is Boun Greu, or Khmu new year. Held in January, every village in the area celebrates on a separate day, giving you the chance to attend the festivities numerous times should you so wish. In Phongsali town itself this festival is only held once every three years, with the next event scheduled for 2021.

There is also Kin Jieng, or Hor New Year, when Phongsali town erupts in a dazzling cacophony of fireworks. Held after the year’s harvest, Kin Jieng is a time for locals to thank the spirit of the land and wish for a plentiful harvest in the coming year.