Northwestern Cambodia

Overview of Koh Ker

The capital of the Khmer Empire from 928 to 944, Koh Ker is one of the most significant archaeological sites in northern Cambodia. Found in an incredibly remote region amid sprawling jungle, Koh Ker has a magical quality.
   

See and Do

Found on the edge of the Kulen Prum Tep Wildlife Sanctuary – an ecotourism destination, 120km from Siem Reap and just 65km from the Thai border, Koh Ker is in a faraway location that gives a true sense of rural Cambodia. The former 10th century capital of the Khmer Empire – previously a thriving city of 10,000 inhabitants – is  an unparalleled place to visit. What is striking about the site is how the jungle and the ruins have melded together, which is no wonder, as Koh Ker was left more or less abandoned from the 10th century until 2004, when road development and de-mining in the local area began. Koh Ker is dominated by the temple complex and double sanctuary, known as Prasat Thom or Prang, in its seven-tiered, 36-metre high pyramid shape. The eastern court with the moat and temple complex are known as Prasat Thom, while the western, pyramid part is known as Prang. The two names are often used interchangeably in practice. Most temples of Khmer kings follow a concentric pattern, so this temple is unusual for its linear shape. Inside Prasat Thom are various rooms to explore, including libraries and a central sanctuary. Behind the sanctuary, there are a total of 21 towers of various sizes, which would have all contained lingas at some point. At 800 metres in length, Prasat Thom is a decent size to explore too, and is surrounded by a moat which would have looked perfectly regal in its heyday. The remarkable moat is 47 metres wide and is bordered by a pretty row of trees, and is flanked by a dam on each side. The pyramid, Prang, has a steep staircase leading to the top, which cannot be used by visitors due to its poor condition. There is a new staircase, however, that visitors can use to ascend the structure.

Elsewhere on the Koh Ker complex, there’s plenty to explore. An impressive sandstone entrance pavilion is one such structure worth noting. In particular, look out for the impressive halls and the ruins of two laterite towers.
  Prasat Krahom is an imposing red brick tower, leading through to enclosed monuments. It’s one of the buildings that is in relatively good condition at Koh Ker.

Behind Prang and Prasat Thom is a perfectly circular, artificially made hill covered in trees. This is known as the Tomb of the White Elephant, which is a well-known legend in South East Asia. The purpose of this hill has been speculated by historians and archaeologists. Some think it could be the foundations of a second pyramid, while others have suggested it could be the grave of King Jayavarman IV.

There are various sanctuaries in different states of repair to be discovered in Koh Ker too. This includes Prasat Pram – a monument with five towers surrounded by an enclosure. The temple of Prasat Bak used to house one of King Jayavarman IV’s huge statues – this one was of the Hindu god, Ganesha. Prasat Chen is a sanctuary with two enclosures and three towers. Five fascinating inscriptions here give some insight into the people who regularly used this temple. Prasat Balang is a sanctuary known for its lingam which is a massive one metre in diameter. Next to this, there is just enough space for religious figures to perform rituals. Water put on the lingam was said to become holy because it touched the symbol of Shiva – the water was collected by running down the Shiva and collected at the bottom. Prasat Thneng also has a still-standing Shiva symbol. Prasat Damrei is Koh Ker’s elephant sanctuary, standing on a tall platform reached by a staircase on each side. There were previously eight stone lions on the staircase, with one remaining today. There are also two impressive elephant sculptures. For those who have time while visiting Koh Ker, it’s also worth stopping off at the neighbouring Kulen Promtep Wildlife Sanctuary. Wildlife lovers may be able to spot the giant ibis – Cambodia’s critically endangered national bird. The village of Tmatboey in the reserve is also a place to learn more about local cultures.

In such a remote region, there aren’t many options for accommodation in the local area, unless you’re lucky enough to be able to arrange a homestay. Many people visit from Siem Reap – about a three hour car journey away. Siem Reap is a city buzzing with restaurants, shops and nightlife – and is the gateway city to the famous ruins at Angkor.
 

Culture and Arts

 The ancient city of Koh Ker is a haven for art and culture lovers. Some of the most notable pieces to see are a couple of two metre high lingas in the shrines at Prasat Thom. Lingas are representations of the Hindu deity Shiva and are often found in temples and shrines, although not usually on such a large scale. There is also a Sanskrit inscription at Prasat Thom that evidences the consecration of one of the Shiva lingams in 921. The dams by the moat at Prasat Thom have Naga balustrades either side. A Naga is a mythical snake-like creature with five heads, and can commonly be seen depicted in Khmer architecture. The red tower of Prasat Krahom used to house an extraordinary 3.5 metre high statue of the Dancing Shiva, which had five heads and ten arms. Broken entirely, the only thing that remains of the statue is a fragment of a hand, which is now on display in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
  An excavation project at Koh Ker in 2015 also uncovered an amazing 24,000 artefacts, which range from Chinese stoneware and Persian pottery.
 

Festivals and Events

 In this remote region of Cambodia, there are not any widely-known about events and festivals available for people to visit. For the best insights into local life, try to arrange a homestay with locals or visit the ecotourism destination of Tmatboey. If the Khmer ruins of Koh Ker have really inspired you and you want to get involved in a festival that celebrates them, it’s best to go to Angkor for the Khmer New Year in April. This three-day festival is celebrated both in the city of Siem Reap and at the site of the ruins, in a celebration called Angkor Sankranta. Starting at sunrise every day, Angkor Sankranta involves music, dancing, traditional games and delicious local foods. Monks also give blessings with holy water and red wristbands throughout the festival.
 

Food and Drink

There are some food stands near the car park at Koh Ker serving local Cambodian staples include hot noodle soups and various rice dishes. Given the remote region, most food options in the surrounding areas are similarly a mixture of street food stands and cute little Khmer eateries.

Overview of Prasat Preah Vihear

As well as the temple, Preah Vihear province is home to Preah Vihear city, a number of remote villages, and the dramatic Dangrek Mountains, which rise steeply and form the border between Cambodia and Thailand. Preah Vihear is also one of nine provinces that is part of the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve – named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve due to the incredibly unique ecology surrounding Tonle Sap Lake.
 

See and Do

  Many people stop or stay in the city of Preah Vihear – known by locals by its former name Tbeng Meanchey – in order to access the temple. For a city, this is a quiet place and while there isn’t much in the way of visitor attractions, it provides a wonderful insight into ‘real’ Cambodia, with locals going about their daily lives.

The town of Sra’em is even closer to Prasat Preah Vihear temple at just 30km away. A small place, this provides another insight into remote Cambodia, with a few simple restaurants to try the local cuisine too.
  The religious complex of Preah Khan Kompong Svay is another archaeological complex of great importance in this region. Thought to date back to the 11th century, it was a royal residence of kings including King Suryavarman II and King Jayavarman VII. There is a large baray (artificial body of water) which was a common means of water supply in Khmer architecture. Impressively, an artificial island has been created in the centre of the baray here to form the site of a cruciform temple with a tower.
  Some people also visit Prasat Preah Vihear temple from Siem Reap – a city with abundant restaurants, bars, markets and shops. It’s most famous as a place where people stay to visit the ancient ruins at Angkor.
 

Culture and Arts

At the temple at Prasat Preah Vihear, one of the gopuras has an artwork depicting the Churning of the Sea of Milk – a well-known episode of Hindu culture – which has been hailed by many as being a masterpiece. One of the most fascinating parts of the temple is an inscription that provides an account of King Suryavarman II studying sacred rituals, marking religious festivals and making gifts such as white parasols. A new museum near Prasat Preah Vihear – the Samdech Techo Hun Sen Eco-Global Museum – is also a fascinating place to visit, as it’s Cambodia’s only ethnological museum. A place for studying, preserving and celebrating culture , it makes sense the museum is located in such a culturally-rich region. This is a museum to get an insight into local customs, cultures, languages and arts, with a focus on the Kuay ethnic group. The museum also has a commitment to conserving flora and fauna, including the traditional medicine rituals from the Mekong River. Given its location near the temple of Prasat Preah Vihear, this is also a place to see some of the archaeological collections that originated from the famous site.
 

Festivals and Events

As this is such a remote region of Cambodia, there are not any widely-known about events and festivals available for people to visit. For the best insights into local rituals, it’s best to arrange homestays with locals when possible. For those who want to enjoy ancient Khmer architecture and local festivals, it’s best to head over to Angkor for the Khmer New Year in April. This is celebrated via a three-day festival at the site of the ruins, called Angkor Sankranta. A celebration that starts at sunrise and continues until late every day, expect music, dancing, traditional games and local foods. Monks also give blessings throughout the festival.
 

Food and Drink

In the city of Preah Vihear, typical Khmer food can be found in the garden restaurant of Dara Reas or in Mlop Dong, which also has some international specialities. Phnom Tbaeng restaurant has some Thai specialities such as the hot and sour tom yam, while street food can be found in the city’s market, with Khmer baguettes a particular local favourite. For an upscale option, Apsara restaurant in the Preah Vihear Boutique Hotel serves traditional Khmer cuisine against outstanding views.

Siem Reap overview

This magnificent region in the north west of Cambodia marks the gateway to the world-famous Angkor Wat Temples ruins – the seat of the Khmer kingdom between the 9th and 15th centuries. Both the province and the main town in the province share the same name – Siem Reap. The name literally translates to mean ‘Siam Defeated’ and comes from a centuries-old conflict between the Siamese and the Khmer. The province is known for its verdant forests in the north and rice paddies in the south. The Siem Reap River meanders all the way through from Phnom Kulen in the north to the Tonle Sap Lake – part of the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve – in the south. However, the most famous part of this province is the capital city of Siem Reap – the sixth largest city in Cambodia. Located on the shore of the Tonle Sap Lake, Siem Reap was only a village until the 19th century, when French explorers rediscovered the ruins at Angkor. As the ruins were gradually restored and more tourists were attracted to the region, Siem Reap became the vibrant, buzzing city it is today.
 

See and Do

  One of the most famous sites is the Temple of Angkor Wat – the largest religious monument in the world. Originally constructed as a Hindu temple, it was then transformed into a Buddhist temple and subsequently became a symbol of the Khmer Empire and Cambodia.
  To explore artefacts recovered from Angkor, the Angkor National Museum is a fascinating place to explore. The museum also looks at Khmer history, civilisation, cultural heritage and art.
  Elsewhere in Siem Reap, the Angkor Centre for Conservation and Biodiversity (ACCB) is worth a visit. This is the first nature conservation and endangered wildlife rescue centre in Cambodia. It’s a fascinating place to learn more about Cambodia’s wildlife and how animals rescued from the illegal wildlife trade are treated and rehabilitated. The centre is home to everything from leopard cats to gibbons.

The Cambodia Landmine Museum in Siem Reap gives important insights into Cambodia’s relatively recent history of conflict and the dangers of landmines. The story of landmines is partly told from the perspective of an individual who was forced to fight for the Khmer Rouge Army as a child soldier. The museum also helps to support a relief centre and school for children who have been affected by landmines.

To get a little off-the-beaten-track in Siem Reap Province, visit some traditional Khmer communities. The floating village of Chong Khneas is widely visited, but Kompong Khleang is much less well-known.
 

Culture and Arts

  The traditional Apsara Dance is a classical Khmer performance art. Inspired by Hindu and Buddhist mythology, depictions of Apsara Dance are found engraved in the ruins at Angkor. Siem Reap is therefore the perfect place to take in an Apsara Dance Show, which includes traditional dress and ornate jewellery to complete the picture. For those who love silk, a visit to the Angkor Silk Farm in Puok is a must. Learn about traditional silk production techniques and watch artisans weave fine pieces of silk thread into scarves and other garments, which are available to buy.

Festivals and Events

Although Cambodia’s main celebrations for the Water Festival (Bon Oum Touk) centre on Phnom Penh, Siem Reap also hosts some festivities. Held in November, this three day celebration marks the end of monsoon season – and it’s been celebrated in Cambodia for centuries. In Siem Reap, expect to see various colourful boat races taking place on the Siem Reap River and fireworks in the evening. In general, there’s a lot going on along the riverside during this festival, while the bars along Pub Street are particularly buzzing.

The Kathen Festival is a Buddhist festival celebrated every October. This is a religious festival of robes, where saffron robes are offered to Buddhist months at pagodas up and down the country. With so many temples and pagodas in Angkor, Siem Reap is a great place to be for this festival. As well as the robe-giving ceremonies, there are usually colourful processions, puppets and music. ChubMet Music and Art Festival is an annual occasion in Siem Reap with a mixture of Cambodian and international artists playing. With various events and performances over a two week period in February, this is a great occasion for music lovers.

The Giant Puppet Parade is another annual festival taking place every February. Oversized puppets lit up and adorned in bright colours make their way along the streets of Siem Reap in a parade to raise money for a children community art project.

Fans of photography and art should make sure they’re in Siem Reap in December for the Angkor Photo Festival. With workshops and exhibitions, this is partly practical and partly inspirational for those who love photography. For those who like a little activity, the Khmer Empire Marathon and Half Marathon takes place every April. With a route that passes some of the most famous heritage sites in the world, this is a once-in-a-lifetime marathon opportunity. The Angkor Wat International Half Marathon takes place every December too.

Food and Drink

Siem Reap is a melting pot of cultures, and with plenty of agricultural land and abundant fish in Tonle Sap Lake too, there is certainly a diversity of food in the locality.

Given the easy access to fish in particular, many traditional Khmer dishes here come with fish instead of meat. Many amazing Cambodian staples can be found from street food stands or in high-end restaurants, so whatever your budget is, you won’t miss out.
  Khmer Red Curry is another popular dish in Siem Reap. Made with coconut milk, Khmer curry paste and slices of fish, beef or chicken, it also comes packed with fresh vegetables. The French influence in Siem Reap is also apparent when this dish is served, as it often comes with a French baguette!
 

Angkor Wat Temple overview

The Angkor Wat Temple– or Angkor Wat – is a breath-taking temple complex in Cambodia, that is also the largest and one of the most culturally significant religious monuments in the world.

Angkor itself was the former capital city of the Khmer Empire between the 9th and 15th centuries. Classed as a megacity, Angkor Wat was a central part of the city. The temple itself covers an incredible area of 1.6 km². Angkor Wat started life as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu, but it later became a Buddhist temple. Built by the Khmer King Suryavarman, it was his state temple and later became his mausoleum too. There’s an abundance of temples across the broader Angkor complex, but Angkor Wat is certainly the most famous, reflecting classical 12th century Khmer architecture. Of utmost importance to the country, it even appears on Cambodia’s national flag. As well as the country’s most popular visitor attraction, Angkor Wat remains a significant working religious centre to this day too.
 

See and Do

The Angkor Wat Temple complex is open most days at 5am and stays open until around 6pm. For an extra special visit to the temple, make an early start and get there for sunrise, which is usually between 5:30am and 6am. It makes the experience especially magical.
  The central structure of Angkor Wat stands on a terrace that is higher than the rest of the megacity, giving it a powerful presence. There are three main galleries to explore, each with its own gopura and tower. Based on the Hindu origins of Angkor Wat, the three galleries are said to represent King Brahma, the god Vishnu and the moon. A further two inner galleries also have towers. Meander through the galleries, cloisters and courtyards to soak up the immense feeling of Khmer history here. Steep stairs leading up to the top of the towers represent the difficulty in rising up to the kingdom of the gods.
  Tip: Remember Angkor Wat is a working religious site, so dress conservatively and ensure your shoulders and knees are covered when you visit.
  Most visitors to Angor Wat stay in the nearby city of Siem Reap, which is a 30 minute tuk-tuk journey or short car ride away. Siem Reap is a place to enjoy markets and street food, traditional Khmer cuisine in restaurants, bars and nightlife along Pub Street, and various museums and shops.
 

Culture and Arts

 Angkor Wat is a fascinating location ripe for exploring the arts and culture in every corner, nook and cranny. The predominant form of decoration of the temple structure is in the style of bas-relief – projecting images of artworks lightly carved into the stone or other materials on the walls in a frieze style. The outer gallery in particular has a series of very large scenes depicting famous Hindu episodes, such as the Battle of Lanka, a procession of King Suryavarman II and the Churning of the Sea of Milk. There are galleries that run between each of Angkor’s towers – on the pillars outside, look out for the decorative lotus rosettes, dancing figures and men on animals. You’ll also see depictions of apsaras and devatas. Apsaras are dancing girls, deities and characters from Indian mythology, often used as motifs for decorating the walls and pillars of temples in Khmer architecture. Female deities who are depicted standing rather than dancing are known as devatas. On the pillar on the southern entrance to Angkor Wat is the only devata on the grounds seen showing her teeth! There are also numerous devatas depicted inside the central structure of Angkor Wat, particularly from the second floor upwards. In fact, there are said to be almost 2,000 devatas depicted across Angkor Wat as a whole. In nearby Siem Reap, it’s possible to watch traditional apsara dance shows if this really captures your imagination.

The Hall of a Thousand Gods (Preah Poan) is another fascinating cultural spot to explore at Angkor Wat. This is where hundreds of images of Buddha were left by pilgrims over centuries. Although most have now been removed, the area around this cloister is full of inscriptions on the walls, detailing the good deeds of the pilgrims. As a working religious centre, Angkor Wat is also home to a number of monks. It is possible to receive blessings from these monks with holy water, with the blessing finished with some red string tied around your wrist for protection. Many people also visit Angkor Wat to light candles and incense in memory of loved ones.
 

Festivals and Events

  For those who enjoy sport mixed with history, the Angkor Wat International Half Marathon takes place every December. The route passes right past Angkor Wat, making it a one-of-a-kind way to experience a marathon.
 

Food and Drink

While it’s not possible to buy food inside Angkor Wat itself, given the fact it’s a place of religious worship, there are plenty of food stand options on the grounds just outside. Many traditional Cambodian flavours are on offer, with grilled meats, rice, pickles and sauces making snacks complete.
  Many people also choose to bring a picnic with them from Siem Reap and find a quiet spot on the broader grounds at Angkor to enjoy a peaceful meal.

Siem Reap itself has no shortage of food options and it’s possible to try every kind of traditional cuisine here, from fish amok to Khmer Red Curry.

Battambang overview

This north-western province of Cambodia is an enchanting locality of rice paddies, jungle and mountains. Known as ‘Cambodia’s rice bowl’ for the fertility of the land, this is a lush, postcard-perfect region. The urban centre is also called Battambang and is the second largest city in Cambodia. This is a city of many attractions, from a sacred hill for meditation, to temples, markets and nightlife. Battambang is also one of the provinces that makes up the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve that is a globally unique ecological phenomenon. Known as a cultural centre of north-western Cambodia, Battambang also has a thriving art and food scene.

Offering a combination of urban buzz and great geographical wonders, Battambang provides visitors with the opportunity to experience a slice of ‘real’ Cambodia.
 

See and Do

Exploring Battambang province is an absolute must for the adventurous at heart, as there’s so much to discover.
  Wat Ek Phnom is an Angkor-era temple located in a picturesque spot by the Sangkae River. Now partly in ruins, this temple is famous for its huge white stone Buddha, pagoda and temple. Religious Khmers still regularly make pilgrimages to this location.
  Other temples worth exploring in Battambang province include Baset Temple in Ta Pun commune. It’s built on a hill offering a fabulous outlook on the surrounding area, and reflects the architecture of King Suryavarman I’s reign in the 11th century. Offering even more impressive views is Prasat Banan, found atop a 400-metre high mountain in Koh Tey 2 commune.
  Also a couple of kilometres outside of Battambang city is Wat Kor Village, a traditional Khmer village ideal for wandering around. The village is home to Wat Kor Temple and some heritage houses that are open to visitors, including Mrs Bun Roeung’s Ancient House.
  The edge of Battambang province also borders Tonle Sap Lake, where it’s pleasant to visit for a lakeside walk, or to spend the day across the lake at the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary.
 

Culture and Arts

 In the city of Battambang itself, there is plenty going on in the way of arts and culture. One of the star attractions here is Battambang Circus, which is put on twice a week by students from a NGO-run school that helps disadvantaged young people escape former problems associated with poverty. Performances begin with traditional Cambodian dance, before students wow the crowds with their amazing acrobatic talents. There are various art galleries in Battambang city, one of which is the HUMAN Gallery. This shows the work of the humanitarian photographer Joseba Etxebarria. It’s also a great place to buy postcards and other gifts, or relax with a Cambodian coffee or glass of wine. ROMCHEIK 5 is also worth a visit, established by a group of young artists and voted one of the Top 10 Independent Art Spaces in South East Asia. The Tep Kao Sol gallery is a fascinating place to buy original watercolours of Cambodian artists, while upstairs in the same building is the ice painting work of a local artist. Sangker Gallery is also a must-visit for those who want to see local artists in action. As well as works on display, it’s a spot where local artists hang out. There is also a regular programme of film screenings and other events.
  On the outskirts of Battambang city is a monument created by artists to celebrate peace in Cambodia following the years of bloodshed. Between 2005 and 2007, weapons were collected from across Battambang and were used to create the monument, called The Naga for Peace and Development Monument. The shape of the monument is that of a Naga – a giant snake – known from both Buddhist and Hindu beliefs.

To see a traditional local craft in action, visit the village of Pheam Ek. The craft of this village is rice paper making, which is used for spring rolls. Wander past family businesses and see rice paste being steamed before it’s laid out to dry on bamboo frames. One of the most original artist endeavours in Battambang is the use of lotus flowers from Kamping Puoy Lake to create high-end textiles. While disadvantaged local people have been trained in the technique, helping them learn a livelihood, the eco-friendly fabric has gained a following in the high-end fashion world.
 

Festivals and Events

The Khmer New Year is one of the key events in Cambodia’s calendar of festivities, occurring in April around the harvest season for three days. Over the course of the event, various religious rituals take place in temples and pagodas. In Battambang, this is the focus of the festivities, so visit any temple or pagoda in the province to see how local people mark the occasion. Cambodia’s primary celebrations for the Water Festival (Bon Oum Touk) happen in Phnom Penh, but that doesn’t stop Battambang hosting some celebrations too. Taking place in November each year, this three day, centuries-old celebration marks the end of monsoon season. In Battambang, much of the festivities focus on the waterways including Sangker River, where colourful boat races take place. There’s a vibrant atmosphere on the streets around this time too.
  With its thriving community of artists, it’s appropriate that Battambang has an annual art fair. Usually organised by the Sangker Gallery in June, Battambang  Art Fair creates an outdoor art fair on the street to make the works of artists accessible to all.
 

Food and Drink

Food and drink in Battambang ranges from traditional Khmer flavours in simple eateries, to high-end fusion options with a distinctive European influence.
  The most popular street food option in Battambang is the Riverside Night Market, where a range of different Khmer foods are served from individual stands. The Night Market in the Psar Nath Market, and The New Night Market opposite are other popular options for street food.

There are so many restaurants and eateries in Battambang serving amazing Khmer flavours, you can’t go far wrong by wandering around and stopping somewhere you like the look of.
  Coffee lovers should head to Kinyei, widely hailed as serving the best coffee in the city. Kinyei baristas have previously won awards in the Cambodian National Barista Championships and regularly represent Cambodia in international competitions. Serving original coffees such as the Street Latte and the Cambodian Cappuccino, this is a place to sample unique coffees.

Fans of art and coffee should pay a visit to Choco l’art Café – a gallery and café run by a local artist. It’s particularly good for coffee and a French inspired breakfast.