Eastern Cambodia

Kratie overview

A rural province of the same name, life in Kratie centres on the charming town located on the banks of the Mekong River.
  Giving an inspiring insight into the Cambodian way of life, a visit to Kratie is full of nature, culture and warm hospitality.
 

See and Do

Make the absolute most of the gorgeous Kratie town and explore the urban centre on foot, by bicycle or by moto. As well as exploring the town centre, it’s possible to follow the riverside in either direction and pass through villages of local indigenous tribes too. It’s also possible to embark on longer cycling or motorcycling journeys along the Mekong Riverside Trail – with homestays and authentic stops along the way. Many people love wandering around Kratie town and the surrounding area to enjoy the old French colonial architecture and numerous temples. Wat Sray Sahn-tah-rah-boh is one of the prettiest temples, located by the river.
  On the outskirts of Kratie town is the Buddhist temple of Wat Roka Kandal. Unlike the much-visited huge temples to be found elsewhere in Cambodia, this small but perfectly formed temple makes a refreshing alternative. Phnom Sombok is another small temple just outside of town worth a visit. Located on a small hill, it also offers immense views of the town and the river.
  Wat Sorsor Moi Roi is a Buddhist temple worth visiting in the village of Sambor, commonly known as the 100-column temple. Although an ancient wooden temple previously stood in this location, Wat Sorsor Moi Roi is an unusual temple in Cambodia because it is a modern one. Legend says that the original temple was built by a former King to honour his daughter, who was eaten by a crocodile. Her remains are said to be kept in the temple’s stupa to this day. Just 100 years after the temple was built, it was struck by lightning and partially burned down.
  Bird watching is also a popular pastime in Kratie Province, since there are a number of interesting birds to be seen, including the Mekong Wagtail. These may be spotted when you’re out on the water for a dolphin watching trip, or embark on a dedicated bird-watching excursion.

Chum Pey waterfall is a pretty place to visit, with a large rock pool at the bottom and hundreds of colourful orchids. Monks meditate at nearby Rut Cham Pey, where they have also arranged a number of interesting statues depicting the cycle of life.
 

Culture and Arts

Kratie Market is a lively hub of the town and is a fascinating place to explore. As well as watching locals going about their daily lives, this is also a great place to find handicrafts made locally in the province. Also head down to the riverfront to look at what the CEDAC Shop has on offer. This is run by a local NGO and there is usually a cacophony of interesting local products on sale, from food products such as local honey, rice and juice, to hand-made hats and other handicrafts. To soak up some local music, pay a visit to the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, which runs occasional musical performances.

Kratie Province has a proud tradition of basket weaving and it’s possible to visit villages known for this craft surrounding Kratie town. One of these villages is Chheu Teil Ploch – home of the indigenous Cham people.

For an alternative market option, head to the village of Chhlong, where there is another bustling daily market selling handicrafts as well as food.

For total immersion in local cultures, Kratie is an area where a number of homestay options are available. Either head out to one of the indigenous villages surrounding Kratie town, or find homestay accommodation on one of the islands on the Mekong, such as Koh Trong or Koh Pdao.

 

Festivals and Events

In the rural area of Kratie, other celebrations are most a family affair. It is possible to visit temples and pagodas to see how locals mark the occasion there – remember to dress respectfully. Some Khmer families visit hotels and a few establishments that remain open for the holiday, so this where to head for a festive atmosphere.
 

Food and Drink

A range of traditional Cambodian food, plus some international options, are available in Kratie. There are a couple of specialities the locality is known for – a raw river fish served in banana leaves called nehm, and sticky rice, beans and coconut milk steamed inside bamboo vessels known as krolan. Both can be found in abundance across the town. Other food typically eaten here is chicken curry served with vegetables, and plenty of fish dishes – given the proximity of the Mekong River. For street food, the market has a thriving ion of food stalls in the evening, with a great range of delicacies on offer.

It may come as a surprise, but one of the most popular restaurants in Kratie is found inside the town’s tourism training centre. Le Tonle Tourism Training Center has a number of trainees participating in its programmes at any one time, and they’re also tasked with preparing the restaurant’s delicious food.
  For those who like a few drinks in the evening, the liveliest place in Kratie is the riverfront, where many people hang on after eating for a drink or two.

Mondulkiri Province overview

The largest but least populated province of Cambodia, Mondulkiri Province is an eastern region bordering Vietnam known for its hilly forests, waterfalls and indigenous communities.
  For outdoor pursuits and the spirit of adventure, Mondulkiri Province is an unmissable Cambodian destination.
 

See and Do

Sen Monorom is the capital of the province and the largest town, but with just 7,500 inhabitants and a handful of guest houses, restaurants and shops, this is a quaint place. Many people come here to have a base before exploring some of the wilder and more remote parts of the region, but the town itself is worth exploring too. Most of the amenities of the town are available along the main strip. Take it all in during the day as there is a charming lack of nightlife in the evenings, and motorcycle taxis only tend to work until early evening too. Look out for the Kouprey roundabout, which has a statue of a kouprey – a wild ox that was formerly the national symbol of Cambodia, but is now believed to be extinct. The town of Sen Monorom is also home to a couple of pristine lakes, which are perfect for a stroll, watching local fishermen and swimmers.

On the outskirts of town, the Phnom Dos Kromom Buddhist temple and pagoda is worth a visit. Surrounded by palm trees and golden statues, this is also a well-known spot for its viewing platform offering immense views over the local area. Many people pay a visit to enjoy the sunset – which is so famous this location is also known as Sunset Hill. The Samot Choeur pagoda is also popular for its views over the evocatively named Sea Forest – an expanse of verdant hills that look like a rolling sea.
  The Seima Protection Forest is a protected area full of wildlife, including wild elephants, bears and big cats. It’s possible to embark on eco-friendly wildlife spotting trips here, and also trips that incorporate overnight stays in a wonderful jungle camp.

The Phnom Prich Wildlife Sanctuary is the largest protected area in the province at 2,225 km2. Home to everything from elephants, tigers and water buffalo to deer and the giant ibis, this is a true wonder of nature. Guided visits are available, as well as homestays in Dei Ey village.
 

Culture and Arts

In Sen Monorom, there are only a handful of shops and restaurants. One place it is possible to buy crafts by local indigenous communities is in the Hefalump Café. Sen Monorom also has a locals’ market selling mostly food, so although it’s not a craft shopping destination, it is a great place to soak up the feeling of daily life in a provincial town. An amazing 80% of the population of Mondulkiri Province is made up of ten indigenous tribes, the majority of whom are Phnong. These tribes live across the province and it’s possible to arrange visits of some of them, particularly in the area surrounding Sen Monorom. Get an insight into the traditional architecture of the Phnong and their most prized possessions, which tend to centre on large jars and gongs used for traditional rituals. Many of these items were buried in remote parts of the jungle during the Khmer Rouge campaign, and are still regularly unearthed to this day. Pou Lung Village is one local village near Sen Monorom that visitors can enjoy going to, where it’s also possible to buy local arts and crafts and try some local foods.
 

Festivals and Events

As a sparsely populated province with mostly indigenous communities, most of the festivals and events that happen occur within the confines of tribes and village communities. As a result, the best way to get an insight into local traditions and rituals is to arrange ethical visits to indigenous communities and homestays if possible.
  Some villages also celebrate Khmer New Year, which falls in around April every year. The three day celebration isn’t always a traditional festival in this area, with visitors often reporting popular music being played from a sound system rather than Buddhist-related rituals.
 

Food and Drink

 Much of the food to be had in Mondulkiri Province is found in simple street food stands. If you’re lucky enough to visit an ethnic village, you may get an insight into what indigenous groups eat. Many are subsistence farmers and just grow enough for their families to eat. Usually this is a range of rice, fruit and vegetables, as well as soups made in bamboo vessels. Some communities also grow coffee, cashews, strawberries, mangoes and avocadoes, but much of this is for selling and exporting. There are some regional food specialities unique to Mondulkiri Province too. A fruit called soursop has a citrus but creamy flavour and is only found in this part of Cambodia. The region also has wild Mondulkiri honey with an original flavour – it’s possible to buy it in Sen Monorom.

In Sen Monorom, the Cinnamon Café and Bakery is popular for breakfast and lunch, with great views of surrounding greenery from the deck. The Hefalump Café is one of the most popular places in town, great for coffee and cake. Khmer dishes are available at the Khmer Kitchen and Sovannkiri, with the Khmer curry and fish amok particularly popular. There are also fried rice, chicken and vegetable dishes. For those missing international flavours, they also have a few alternative options on the menu. Mondulkiri Pizza is the place for those with pizza cravings. Given the proximity of Mondulkiri Province to the Vietnamese border, the food is also influenced by this, with the likes of pho and ban chao often found on the menu.

One of the few evening hotspots in Sen Monorom is The Hangout, popular with international visitors. There is occasional live music to accompany the drinks and Khmer-international menu.

Kampong Cham overview

Named after the ethnic Cham people originating in the area, Kampong Cham Province is in a lowland region with a huge stretch of the Mekong River running alongside it.
 
Slip into a traditional Cambodian lifestyle blending the rural, the river and the city, with a visit to Kampong Cham.
 

See and Do

One of the most famous sites in Kampong Cham city was previously its bamboo bridge, connecting the mainland to a Mekong River island called Koh Paen. Previously the longest bamboo bridge in the world at 1km long, it could amazingly carry large trucks as well as the numerous cars, motorcycles and bicycles that crossed it every year. Washed away each and every year during monsoon season, the famous bamboo bridge was painstakingly rebuilt every year without fail. A concrete bridge has now replaced this famous bamboo bridge, although a smaller bamboo bridge has been built nearby, which people can cross on foot or by pushing a bicycle over it.
 
On the edge of the city is Wat Nokor, part of the ancient Banteay Prey Nokor temple complex. This is the location where it is believed King Jayavarman VII used as his headquarters for a significant period of time to exert his influence over other local regions. Unlike many other temple complexes in Cambodia, which are usually constructed using brick or red sandstone, Wat Nokor is built from black sandstone. The central tower of the temple depicts a number of scenes from Buddhist teachings.
 
A temple worth visiting outside the city is Wat Maha Leap, as it is one of the only wooden pagodas left in Cambodia. After being used by the Khmer Rouge as a hospital with original adornments covered up, monks have painstakingly restored some of the pagoda’s features to their former glory. Monks still live and pray from a building next to the temple. Another interesting pagoda just outside the city is Wat Hanchey. With origins at least as far back as the 8th century, this hilltop temple also offers fantastic views of the Mekong River and the surrounding area.
 
Kampong Cham Province is well-known for its rubber plantations, and it’s possible to pay a visit to some of them to see how the fascinating process works. One plantation not too far from the city is the Chup Rubber Plantation, where tours for visitors are possible.

For those visiting from Phnom Penh, or for those who want to visit Cambodia’s capital from a base in Kampong Cham, it’s as quick to travel between the two by road as it is by boat along the Mekong River. The latter option offers a wonderfully scenic experience of Mekong life, so take advantage of the opportunity.

 

Culture and Arts

 There are a number of villages that specialise in weaving in Kampong Cham Province, including in the area surrounding the city. One of these villages is Prek Changkran, where almost every home also has a loom for weaving. Many of the villagers here specialise in making the traditional Cambodian krama, which locals have multiple uses for, including as a scarf, bandanna or for decoration. The region is also famous for silk, so many of the garments made here are made from these locally produced silks too.
For another fascinating insight into rural life in Kampong Cham, pay a visit to the village of Cheung Kok on the outskirts of the city. Visits to this village are run by an NGO and give visitors the opportunity to gain an insight into agricultural practices there, such as rice harvesting. There’s also a shop where local hand-made crafts are sold.
Those keen on doing a bit of shopping should go to the Central Market in the centre of the city. The Art Deco building is fascinating enough, but the shops sell everything here, from fashion to handicrafts.
 

Festivals and Events

 The Khmer New Year is Cambodia’s most popular event, taking place in April around the harvest season for three days. The festival sees numerous religious rituals take place in temples and pagodas, which plenty of people visit to pay their respects. In the city of Kampong Cham, many shops and businesses close, but there are a lot of festivities on the streets, with food, traditional games and music. Some locals have a tradition of climbing the +300 steps at Phnom Srey for Khmer New Year and other holidays.  
The Mekong River Festival takes place in a different city and town along the Mekong each year, and Kampong Cham is one city where the festival sometimes takes place. It involves a gala with sporting activities and many riverside festivities, in order to pay tribute to Asia’s seventh longest river.
 

Food and Drink

Kampong Cham is a rural and agricultural province, so much of what you find in the shops and restaurants has been sourced locally. This ranges from jackfruit to delectable fish from the Mekong River. Sugar cane is also locally produced, and fresh sugar cane juice is sold from small carts on almost every street in the city.
In the city of Kampong Cham, there is a stretch of restaurants that serve a mixture of Khmer and international cuisine along the riverfront. One of these is SMILE Café, which is run by a local NGO and helps train orphans and vulnerable young people in hospitality skills. Lazy Mekong Daze nearby serves great Mekong fish, for those who want to try the local foodstuffs. A number of food and drink stands also set up along the riverside during the evening for those who want an informal meal.

Low key Khmer food in the city can be found at Hao An or Spien Thmei Restaurant. Coffee lovers should stop off at Destiny Coffee House, which is also run by a NGO working with vulnerable young people.

Adventurous foodies should visit the town of Skun in Kampong Cham Province. The food speciality of this town is deep fried tarantula!

Ratanakiri Province overview

Found in the far north-east of Cambodia, bordering both Laos and Vietnam, Ratanakiri Province is a region of towering mountains, lush tropical forests and traditional lifestyles led by Cambodia’s large indigenous population here. An area of immense natural beauty, Ratanakiri Province is a place to visit for those who enjoy outdoor pursuits and traditional cultures. With Virachey National Park to the north and Lumphat Wildlife Sanctuary to the south, this province has an abundance of nature and outdoor space to make the most of. Red dusty roads give the feeling of intrepid exploration. While there are small towns in Ratanakiri Province, more of the locals live in villages, working on the land and living a traditional way of life. There is a large population of Khmer Loeu living in Ratanakiri Province, which is the collective name given to indigenous groups who live in Cambodia’s highlands.

Providing an outstanding insight into Cambodia’s cultural and natural highlights, a visit to Ratanakiri Province does not disappoint.
 

See and Do

Ban Lung town itself is a small but interesting place to wonder around, with some good-looking restaurants and hotels located around two lakes on the edge of town: Kam San Lake and Kan Seng Lake.

Another area of rich wildlife and vegetation is the Lumphat Wildlife Sanctuary in the southernmost part of Ratanakiri Province. Not widely visited by travellers in Cambodia yet, embarking on one of the few eco-tours that do come here mean it’s an even more special experience. There’s an immense diversity of wildlife to be found in the 2,225 km2 park, including tigers, elephants, bears, buffalos and red-headed vultures, while the natural environment ranges from mountains to forests. Local rangers are able to take visitors on tours of the park, which can include camping for up to a week and getting a helping hand from an elephant and handler.
 

Culture and Arts

Near Yeak Laom Lake, it is possible to take a tour with an indigenous guide to villages of the Tompuon people. Visitors often see local crafts and traditions in action, including basking weaving, animist traditions and local dance.
  The market in Banlung is a place to shop for crafts, hand-made clothes and souvenirs. Unlike markets in the towns that are more popular with international travellers, Banlung’s market is not at all touristy. The authentic feeling of soaking up the culture here is as good as the rare finds to be found on the stalls.
 

Festivals and Events

As a region in Cambodia with a large population of ethnic minorities, most festivals and events in Ratanakiri Province take place on a small scale in villages. The various cultures of each ethnic tribe dictate what these traditions are. The best way to experience this is to visit an ethnic village or organise a homestay via a local ethical organisation. Sacrificial festivals are common among the mostly indigenous population of Ratanakiri Province. Most ethnic tribes practice these traditions during March or April each year, coinciding with the time of year when fields are chosen and prepared for the planting season ahead.
 

Food and Drink

The traditional foods of Ratanakiri Province centre on what is grown or readily available to source here. The diet of indigenous tribes is largely focused on rice and fish, while fruits grown in the province are widely eaten, including bananas, mangoes, papayas and jackfruit.
  The options for dining out in Ratanakiri Province mainly centre on the town of Banlung, where there are some good options for trying a range of cuisines. Café Alee is a popular choice, serving a range of Khmer and western foods, and a range of drinks into the small hours of the morning. The restaurant is socially conscious too, as they run a scholarship programme for the education of local indigenous children.
  There are some pretty dining options surrounding Kan Seng Lake on the edge of town too. For low-key coconut milkshakes and noodles, Coconut Shake Restaurant is the place to go. Chanang Blue Moon and Pteas Bay Khmer are also worth a visit for a mixture of Cambodian and international flavours.

For evenings out, Buffalo Cowboys is a place to have a drink and listen to live music, while Apple Club is a nightclub popular with both locals and international visitors.

Phnom Penh overview

Cambodia’s capital city of Phnom Penh was once known as the ‘Pearl of Asia’ for a good reason. Wide boulevards, a smattering of French colonial buildings and a cultural and historical centre all rolled into one, Phnom Penh is a delight for all the senses. Home to 1.5 million people, Phnom Penh is a buzzing place. Take in the architecture, go on tuk-tuk (remorque moto) tours and soak up the café culture and food scene. Visit bustling markets, gain insights into history in the many museums and pay a visit to the sparkling Royal Palace. City life carries on to the back of the mighty Mekong River and the Tonle Sap River – which run right by the city – providing opportunities aplenty to enjoy the best of waterside living too.

Offering urban thrills and quiet corners for reflection, visiting Phnom Penh is an unmissable Cambodian experience.
 

See and Do

The Royal Palace is one of the most popular places to visit in Phnom Penh. The official residence of Cambodia’s King Sihamoni, the palace compound near the banks of the river arouses much curiosity. Given the fact it is the King’s residence, visitors are only allowed into a few rooms, but it is still well worth the visit. One of these rooms is the Throne Hall, where coronations and special ceremonies take place. Tip: Wear clothes that cover your knees and shoulders, otherwise you’ll have to buy a sarong at the ticket booth. Next door to the Royal Palace but still within the royal grounds is the impressive Silver Pagoda, also called Wat Preah Keo or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The ‘silver’ in the name comes from the fact five tonnes of silver covers the pagoda’s floor. The extravagance doesn’t stop there either, as the pagoda’s staircase is made from gleaming Italian marble, while a 90kg solid-gold Buddha is adorned with more than 2,000 diamonds. Surrounding this Buddha is an almost-as-heavy bronze Buddha, plus a silver Buddha too. The pagoda is also home to some original Khmer artworks.
  At the edge of Phnom Penh is Choeung Ek – also known as The Killing Fields – where 17,000 prisoners from S-21 were killed. The Khmer Rouge are said to have executed more than a million people here between 1975 and 1979. Nowadays, the outdoor green space is a tranquil spot and it’s an important place to learn about this tragic time in history. A memorial made up of more than 8,000 skulls was added to the site in the 1980s.
  The Independence Monument is also worth visiting. It celebrates Cambodia’s independence from France in 1953 and is designed as a 57-metre high stupa in a lotus design. When any national celebrations and festivals are taking place, this is a spot in the city many people flock to in order to celebrate.

To see the city from a different perspective, head down to Sisowath Quay and go on a boat trip along the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers.

It’s even possible to experience a little of Cambodia’s wildlife from the city. Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center is outside the city, but it’s possible to get there and back in a day trip and have an invaluable wildlife experience in the meantime. This is a place where it’s possible to see and interact with wildlife that has been rescued from the illegal wildlife trade, including elephants, tigers and macaque monkeys.
 

Culture and Arts

Phnom Penh has numerous markets ideal for craft-shopping and soaking up Cambodian culture. Head to Psar Thmei (‘New Market’) – also called Central Market – for jewellery, antiques, clothing and food stands. It’s also a place to be wowed by the Art Deco architecture and huge gold domed roof. The Russian Market is an even more popular market. Cheaper than Psar Thmei and more thrumming, this is a place to find plenty of crafts, souvenirs and yet more food stands.
  Traditional Cambodian dance and music shows abound in Phnom Penh, so be sure to enjoy one while you’re in the city. There’s a particularly diverse programme of events like this at the National Museum of Cambodia, with a dance show taking place at 7pm Monday to Saturday. If you prefer other art forms, pay a visit to The Empire Movie House for arthouse cinema showings. The Flicks Community Movie Theaters are also popular, as is the Tarantino Movie Theater and Restaurant.
 

Festivals and Events

The Khmer New Year is one of the biggest annual festivals in Cambodia’s calendar, occurring over three days in April each year. Many people visit temples and pagodas at this time of year to offer and receive blessings. As well as the religious aspect, the occasion is cause for much celebration in Phnom Penh, when a carnival atmosphere hits the streets.
  Pchum Ben (‘Soul Day’ or ‘Ancestors Day’) is a 15-day Buddhist festival in Cambodia, which usually falls in September or October each year. It’s a time when Cambodians pay their respects to deceased relatives and people bring food offerings to temples and pagodas across the country. Pchum Ben is more of a family affair than a public celebration, but visitors will notice the flurry of activity and offerings happening in religious locations throughout the city, with people wearing their best brightly coloured clothes. Tip: cover your knees and shoulders when visiting temples and pagodas to show the proper respect.
  The Kathen Festival is festival celebrated across Cambodia every October. A Buddhist festival, this is a time when saffron robes are offered to Buddhist monks at pagodas and temples. Visit any temple in Phnom Penh during this time which has a working population of monks and you’ll be able to spot the celebrations.
  For those who want to pay their respects to those who died during the Khmer Rouge campaign, it’s possible to visit The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek for a memorial ceremony on 9 May every year.

Phnom Penh also hosts an International Music Festival every year, of mostly classical music hosted at various concerts in November.
 

Food and Drink

In Phnom Penh, it is possible to try every variation of Khmer cuisine, as well as an international cacophony of cuisines and fusion flavours. One food that Phnom Penh is known for is kuy teav Phnom Penh – the city’s interpretation of a rice-noodle soup. It can be found everywhere from street vendors to sit-down restaurants. For street food in the city, head to any of the markets, or track down some famous streets in the evening that come to life with street food stands in the evening. Try Sihanouk Boulevard and the corner of Street 19 for a variety of street food stands.

Cheap but popular eateries include Psar Kapko Café on Street 9 – especially good for Khmer curries and fish amok.
  For some European flavours, try The Providore, The Lost Room or Quitapenas.

Cambodia is also a big fan of fusion food, and one place to try this in Phnom Penh is Friends the Restaurant. Serving an original mixture of Cambodian and European flavours, this restaurant also has a social conscience, as they help train homeless people and vulnerable young people to get jobs in the hospitality industry.

Coffee lovers should pay a visit to Feel Good – who roast all their own coffee – or the Cambodian chain, Brown Coffee.